Cut hibiscus properly - we show when and how!
- Cutting garden hibiscus
- Cut room hibiscus
- Cut giant hibiscus / perennial hibiscus
When cutting it depends on which hibiscus it is. The so-called Roseneibisch, a room or container plant, is cut differently than the Garteneibisch . Then there is the so-called giant hibiscus, a perennial plant, which in turn requires very different cutting measures. It is therefore necessary to know exactly which type of hibiscus it is, not only because of the cut, but also in order to hibernate the plants properly.
Cutting garden hibiscus
The garden hibiscus does not necessarily have to be cut, but it is highly recommended. Especially young plants branch out better. There are significantly more shoots, the entire structure of the plant is more harmonious and not so spirrlig, as one sees these shrubs again and again in gardens. When cutting you do not have to be squeamish. It can cut vigorously. The more you cut, the stronger the plants will drive. But it is also necessary to fertilize immediately after the cut and to water. It is cut in late winter or early spring. The heavy frosts should be over, the shoot must not have started yet. Early March is a good time.
- Cut end of February / beginning of March
- Do not cut at frost, this should be largely over
- For bushes, shorten all shoots by at least 1/3
- For very dense shrubs cut half of it quietly by 2/3
- Cut back strongly even with very few shoots
- Hibiscus blooms on this year's wood, a strong cut thus has no negative impact on the flower, on the contrary, it is promoted by the measure
- For high trunks, cut an even round crown
- Again, can be cut strongly
- Cut abundantly, especially in young woody plants, so that the crown builds up tight
- Do not cut that hard after a few years
- Cut as needed
- If the crown has become unsightly, make a strong cut again.
Cut room hibiscus
The so-called rose marshmallow depends on what is to be achieved with the cut. A distinction is made between parenting, maintenance and rejuvenation. Since the plants can grow quite vigorously and take on quite large proportions, they are often cut if they have grown too large and thus create a space problem. In addition, the flowering of the plants is increased with a cut. The hibiscus only blooms at the shoot tips. If these are quite long and only a few are present, the flowering houseplant looks strange. It is better, therefore, to reach for a uniform dense plant structure and many shoots regularly scissors. Many shoots mean many flowers and this is only achieved by cutting. You do not have to be too hesitant. With too little cutting measures, the hibiscus grows spirally and the bloom subsides.
- Cutting in late winter or in early spring or after flowering
- some hibiscus flower year-round, there is never a perfect time, some flowers must be sacrificed.
- cut to optics, it must create a harmonious overall picture.
- Cut out diseased and damaged shoots
- intersecting or touching shoots that grow inward also cut out
- to dense plants
- the stronger the cut, the stronger the shoot
- you can build a hibiscus so completely new
- Radical section possible
- always cut something at an angle
- it is ideal to leave an outward eye last
- education section
- Cutting young plants so they can branch out better,
- Shorten shoots about 1/3, start immediately after planting,
- cut all shoots down to 3 buds
- preservation section
- clear out, remove sick and dead wood,
- Shorten shoots as needed and reduce growth
- rejuvenation pruning
- trim plants that are too big or sparsely growing,
- Promote flowering
- for the education of the Hochstamm
- straight trunk necessary,
- Starting side shoots starting from the bottom cut again and again until desired height is reached,
- Cut the leader on each cut to 6 eyes.
- trim at desired height, trunk extension and shorten main branches, so that a crown can form.
Cut giant hibiscus / perennial hibiscus
These beautiful flowering plants are the easiest to cut of any hibiscus. It is a perennial or half-tree and they move in the fall. All leaves fall off, leaving only the long shoots. These freeze in winter partly back and can be cut close to the ground. This can be done in autumn, but better in late winter, or in early spring. So that the plant does not look too futuristic in the winter, I cut something back in the fall and then completely in the spring. This method has proven itself. Although the perennial hibiscus drives out very late, but reliable. Every year more shoots and more flowers appear.
- Shorten shoots in half length in autumn
- cut off near the ground in spring