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Sharpen ceramic knives - instructions in 5 steps

  • General information about ceramic knives
  • Sharpen ceramic knives
    • Tips and hints
  • The first grinding
  • Tips for quick readers

Ceramic knives are naturally very high quality and correspondingly long lasting. They only become dull after many years of use. Then it is time to sharpen them so as not to lose any of their great power. As an alternative to "repair" by a specialist, you can also pre-knot your ceramic knives yourself. We will show you what you need for sharpening the tools and how you have to be specific in order to get your first-class cutters back in top shape!

Professional and amateur cooks appreciate the fulminant properties of ceramic knives enormously. Accordingly and often the utensils are bought and used. It is primarily the immense sharpness that makes the knives indispensable helpers in the preparation of delicious food. But what if the sharpness gradually loses its power "> General to ceramic knives

Ceramics are extremely hard and can be cut extremely thin. These outstanding benefits were recognized by the Japanese early on, so they started using the material for their knife blades. The ceramic knives originally came from Japan, but soon after their development in the East, they also managed to establish themselves in the Western world.

Ceramic knives are the higher quality alternative to steel knives. The blades of the latter are classified according to the unit of measure HRC (hardness according to Rockwell) and differentiated. The higher the value of this unit of measurement, the harder the steel is - a property associated with low (re) wear. In other words: A very hard blade is just as robust and associated only with little or late wear. Even ceramic knives can be classified better with the help of the Rockwell table. A small overview for illustration:

  • Hardnesses for steel blades are usually between 52 and 65 HRC.
  • Steel knives in the lower price segment have a hardness of approx. 52 to 55 HRC.
  • Low-cost ceramic knives with VG-10 steel core ("gold steel") move at around 60 HRC.
  • Very good ceramic knives are classified at 67 HRC.

Keep in mind that even a single step in the Rockwell scale (from about 65 to 66) makes a noticeable difference. Although 52-inch knives are very flexible, they are dull after just a short time. The higher the HRC value, the longer it will take for the next sharpening to become necessary.

Our overview already shows the pronounced high quality of ceramic knives. In the knife area they are undoubtedly the best of the best.

Further advantages of ceramic knives:

  • Unlike steel, ceramics are resistant to acids (such as fruits and vegetables).
  • The surface of ceramic knives is extremely easy to care for.
  • Pure ceramics can not rust normally.
  • The dead weight of a ceramic blade is much lower than that of a steel blade.
  • Ergo: Working with ceramic knives is very pleasant.
  • Ceramics are chemically absolutely pure.

Sharpen ceramic knives

We have already indicated several times: If a ceramic knife gets dull, it definitely has a very long working life behind it. Most knife manufacturers advise their customers to have the precious blade regrinded by a specialist in order to avoid the risk of damaging the good piece in any way. However, there is hardly a reason not to take the sharpening of the ceramic knife into your own hands. Of course, the grinder should bring a minimum of manual skill. In addition, it is only important to use the right tool and to work strictly according to our instructions. Then nothing can go wrong!

You need this:

  • Knife sharpener with diamond-coated disc or grinding block with diamond coating
  • Water in matching (flat) container and grippy pad for sanding block
  • cloth

Tips and hints

While steel knives are absolutely sufficient for steel knives, you need a special diamond grinder for ceramic knives. This is suitable for thin and ground on both sides knives - features that are known ceramic knives. Although a diamond grinder is slightly more expensive than a conventional knife sharpener, the financial outlay is still limited. A good diamond sander in rod form costs about 30 euros, for a sanding block with diamond coating you put on average about 50 euros.

The knife sharpener with diamond-coated disc has the advantage that it already specifies a suitable grinding angle, so that you can make virtually no mistakes even as inexperienced users. In contrast, the use of a grinding block with diamond coating is recommended only if you already have a good feel for the grinding angle. Otherwise there is a risk of damaging the ceramic knife and / or impairing the sharpness.

Do not use Japanese water stones, even if you read a recommendation here and there. The stones are too soft for the hard ceramic blades and only use off. Meanwhile, the knife leaves unsharpened the procedure. So you see that the waterstones bring no advantage, but there are clear disadvantages.

When sharpening, the diamond grinder must be continuously cooled so that it does not run too hot and damage the knife. For cooling, water is used. Be sure to pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions for correct use of the diamond grinder before you start! And: If you work with water, you should always wipe it off the knife again and again.

Generally, a 1, 000 grit is enough for easy sharpening of a ceramic knife. If your knife is so blunt that it needs a new ground grind, you should choose a coarser grit (best a 400er).

How to use a knife sharpener with a diamond-coated disc:

Step 1: Take the ceramic knife in your strong hand and hold it tight. To increase the stability, fix the blade with your thumb.

Step 2: Use your free hand to grab the knife sharpener. Of course, it is also important to keep track of these. You should literally have both utensils under control.

Step 3: Pass both sides of the knife blade alternately with slight but constant pressure at a 20-degree angle several times over the grinder in rod form.

Tip: The knife sharpener is only suitable for minor wear of the blade. If it is already very dull, you will have to operate with a diamond-coated sanding block, for better or worse.

Here's how to do it with a diamond coated grinding block:

Step 1: Place the sanding block in a jar of water and leave it in it for about 15 minutes before you start sanding.

Tip: Even during grinding, the sanding block must always be cool, ie wet. Use a shallow container with a grippy surface so that you can easily work on the sanding block while it is being cooled by the water.

Step 2: Pick up the ceramic knife. Hold it firmly by the handle and place your thumb sideways against the blade. This ensures more stability and can guide the knife better and more evenly.

Step 3: First sharpen the tip of the ceramic knife. To do this, place the knife at a narrow angle between ten and fifteen degrees. Now use your other hand to guide the knife in an absolutely purposeful way. In this pose, pull the knife blade up and down (or back and forth) over the grinder. Act with constant light pressure.

Tip: During the grinding, a fine burr is created at the blade tip. As soon as you can feel it, it is time to attack the middle of the blade.

Step 4: Now lay the knife at an angle of 60 degrees and continue the grinding process with the middle of the blade.

Tip: During the grinding cycle, dust forms, which you should always remove from both the grinder and the knife blade. Use your mouth (blow away) or a damp cloth (wipe off). In case of water do not forget to dry the knife afterwards.

5th step: Have you sufficiently worked one side of the blade (no longer felt at the tip but also at the other blade points) ">

Tip: We recommend that you treat the entire grinding process several rounds (about three to five). Although this takes some time, this investment is always worth the convincing result.

The first grinding

The first time you should be very careful and take a lot of time. This gives you a good feel for the material and allows you to work faster and more efficiently during later sanding cycles.

Do it yourself or better to the expert ">

Tip: Sometimes there is even a free manufacturer service. In such a case you only have to send in your dulled knife and get it back in a sharpened state. First of all, find out if the manufacturer of your knife offers this service. If so, of course you save a lot of effort (and money).

Sharpening ceramic knives is not an easy task, but it is a solvable task. With a diamond-coated knife sharpener or sanding block and the right approach, you succeed in making your high-quality kitchen assistants again neatly. Follow our instructions down to the tiniest detail to achieve an inspiring result. Any doubt about one's own competencies is an indication that it is better to seek out a specialist than to accept the risk of possible damage to the blade and to consciously accept it. But if you bring a little craftsmanship with you, it will certainly be enough to sharpen your ceramic knives!

Tips for quick readers

  • Be sure to use a special diamond sharpener for knives
  • 1.000 grit is suitable for easy resharpening of the knives
  • 400 grit is needed for a new ground grind (blade very blunt)
  • Knife sharpener with diamond-coated disc (generally work at a 20 ° angle!)
  • Alternative: diamond-coated grinding block (blade very blunt)
  • Sanding block must be continuously cooled in water
  • Non-slip surface is very important when using a sanding block
  • When using a sanding block, guide the ceramic blade with both hands
  • Put thumb on the blade side (this increases the stability)
  • Sanding block: sand the tip of the knife at an angle of 10 to 15 °
  • Sanding block: sand the knife center at an angle of approx. 60 °
  • It is best to process both sides of the knife several times (3 to 5 turns are ideal)
  • Blow away ceramic dust in between or wipe it with a damp cloth
  • After damp wiping, dry the knife again and again
  • Ceramic knives are extremely robust and stay sharp for a long time
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