Home generalWhy does my hibiscus lose leaves, flowers and buds?

Why does my hibiscus lose leaves, flowers and buds?

  • dryness
  • wetness
  • Outdated shoots
  • Spider mite infestation
  • relocation
  • leaf spot
  • Yellow spot disease
  • chlorosis

That a hibiscus gets yellow leaves, may happen before. However, if many leaves turn yellow and fall off, you should find out the cause. If additional buds and / or flowers are dropped, this usually has a good reason.

The garden marshmallow, which is the hibiscus that can be planted out, is very robust and is rarely infested with pathogens. The fact that such a plant sometimes gets a few yellow leaves is normal. However, should this become more frequent, it must be checked whether the soil around the plant bale is too dry or too wet. In addition, the leaves are to inspect for fungal infestation. The fungal spores usually sit under the leaves and are easily recognizable there. If buds are thrown off before blooming, this is usually due to an acute lack of water. However, nutrients may be missing. Of course, pests can also be responsible for the condition of the hibiscus. This must also be clarified.

Hibiscus loses flowers

The rosemary, which is cultivated as a room or container plant, there are usually more problems. In the often small vessel often lack nutrients, also the irrigation water does not reach in sunny location and high heat. The bale dries out several times in a row and this weakens the hibiscus. The plant becomes susceptible to disease. When wintering, pests occur, especially if the conditions are not right. Often high temperatures and low humidity are to blame. The most common are chlorosis and leaf spot diseases.

dryness

Dryness is detrimental to both garden hibiscus and houseplants. If that happens once or twice, that's no problem. The plants usually recover very quickly. With an accumulation of dry periods the plants weaken then however. Their resilience diminishes and they concentrate their power on the survival of the root, because they can drive it out again. What is not needed for survival can go. First, flowers and buds are dropped. The cost of strength and that is needed elsewhere. Then the water supply of the leaves is set, which is easy to recognize because they hang limp and powerless on the plant. When the dryness is recognized and poured as soon as possible, the leaves will recover and re-establish themselves. Has it taken too long, the leaves are beyond saving. Here only a tighter pruning and regular pouring helps, in the hope that life is still in the rootstock and the hibiscus expels again. Dryness, especially frequent dryness so it should be avoided. The soil should be slightly damp evenly.

  • Water regularly
  • Do not let dry out
  • Keep slightly damp at the same time, except in winter

wetness

Wetness is just as damaging for all hibiscus species. If the roots are in the water, they start to rot after some time. Therefore, it is important that no water in the coaster or planter stops. It is best to check after casting that no excess water remains. Yellow leaves on the hibiscus are a first sign of laziness. If the condition is discovered in time, the plant can usually be rescued. Repotting helps here.

Hibiscus poured too much

It removes as much soil around the roots as possible without damaging it. Then black, rotting and dead roots are carefully cut, hoping that enough rootage remains to ensure survival. Then again in a new, above all permeable substrate potting. Drainage in the bottom of the vessel helps to drain excess water and prevent it from becoming blocked.

  • No standing wet
  • At the beginning of root rot helps to repot
  • Install drainage

Outdated shoots

If the hibiscus is not cut regularly, it can lead to an aging of the shoots. These then no longer buds and the leaves turn yellow quickly and fall off. This can also happen in the garden hibiscus, as in the houseplant. Although there are several reasons for a regular interventions, prevention of aging is already important.

  • Regular cutting measures

Spider mite infestation

Especially when hibernating the rose marshmallow, spider mites often occur. This is usually due to too warm room temperatures and too low humidity. Spider mites spread very rapidly as they multiply explosively. Besides, they are difficult to combat. It is very important to recognize the pests early. If the leaves have already turned yellow due to the infestation, it is usually too late. Regular checks for infestation are important, preferably weekly. Spider mites are best recognized by spraying water over the hibiscus with a nebulizer. At the shoot tips, under the leaves and at the bifurcations of shoot and petiole, small droplets of water can be seen on reticular structures. These webs are built by the spider mites, they can be recognized by them. Otherwise, pale leaves are a symptom, these have already been pierced and sucked. They appear somewhat transparent and limp, becoming increasingly yellowish and finally fall off. Buds are also gladly spun. They too turn yellow and fall off.

Also aphids can cause damage

Spider mites can usually be fought only with the chemical club, where you always have to look at what funds are on offer. Many have not received approval, the selection is very limited and spider mites quickly develop resistance. If the pests are detected early, increasing the humidity and spraying the plants regularly with water can help.

  • Too high temperatures
  • Too low air humidity
  • Mist the plant with water and look for webbing
  • Use chemical agents
  • Increase humidity
  • Regular checks

relocation

If the Zimmerhibiskus frequently changed, it can happen that it throws off its buds. He expresses his indignation. The leaves can turn yellow, but this happens less often. Bud fall is however typical. Location changes like the rosemary not particularly. The same applies to drafts.

  • If possible, do not change
  • No drafts

leaf spot

Brown irregular spots on the leaves are usually caused by a fungus. The leaf spot disease occurs in many plants and can affect both the garden hibiscus, as well as the cultured as indoor plants specimens. The leaves must be removed quickly before the fungus can spread further. To avoid spreading, they must not be disposed of on the compost, but in the household waste.

  • Leaf spot
  • fungal infection
  • Remove affected leaves

Yellow spot disease

Only yellow spots on the leaves indicate a viral disease, yellow spot disease. Not the whole sheet turns yellow, but only a few spots. As in humans, viral diseases are also transmissible in plants, which is why the hibiscus should be isolated. Affected leaves should all be disposed of. It is important not to give them to the compost. They must be disposed of with household waste.

  • Yellow spot disease
  • Virus - transferable
  • Isolate plant
  • Remove affected leaves

chlorosis

Yellowish leaves, in which the leaf veins clearly emerge (usually bright green), are typical of a chlorosis. The cause is a certain nutrient deficiency, usually iron. Although the fertilizer is often present in the soil, the plant can not absorb it for certain reasons. This may be dryness, waterlogging, soil compaction, poor ventilation, cold or other cultural defects. If there really is no fertilizer, it is easy to solve the problem. You just have to fertilize properly. There are special fertilizers, even those that can be absorbed through the leaves. However, if enough has been fertilized, it must be found out what goes wrong. First, look for the root, not that the fault. Cut off foul parts. If much has to be removed, the upper part of the plant must also be cut back. You should also repot in a loose, well-drained substrate. The casting behavior must be changed. When Zimmerhibiskus can also help to move to a warmer place. When garden hibiscus mulch with bark mulch is recommended. The soil remains moist for longer, does not dry out so quickly.

  • Yellowish leaves with prominent leaf veins
  • Mostly iron deficiency
  • Special fertilization
  • Often, nutrients can not be absorbed
  • Is due to dryness, moisture, soil compaction, poor ventilation, cold or care errors
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