Sewing Chair Covers - Instructions and patterns for a chair cover
- Material selection and material quantity
- Sew chair covers
- Quick guide
An all-time classic for the dining area: the cover for your chair. Whether you just need a decorative element or want to brighten up worn chairs, plan a special event or just try something different: A chair cover is definitely an eye-catcher. There are these so-called covers in many variants: long and short, completely closed and open, with and without pleats, colorful and plain colors, with and without a bow. Just as diverse are the possible uses.
Today, I'll show you how to make bespoke slipcuts for your chairs, how to plan a box fold, how to sew chair covers, and how to decorate them.
Quick and easy to self-sewn chair covers:
Difficulty level 2/5
(with some patience suitable for beginners)
Material costs 1.5 / 5
(depending on fabric selection up to EUR 80, -)
Time required 3/5
(including the creation of the pattern a little over 3h)
Material selection and material quantity
Chair covers are suitable for almost every type of fabric. Depending on whether the material is stretchable or not, but they have to plan a few inches more or less of "leeway". I opted for a slightly more stable linen fabric. This is not stretchy and so I have to add a few inches everywhere. In addition, I will sew a box fold on the backrest. So there is certainly no difficulty when putting on and taking off the chair.
For a chair case I need about 1.5 m of the fabric to full width, in my case 1.5 m.
Unfortunately, I can not offer you a ready-made pattern for chair covers for download, as they always have to be made individually. It is unlikely that you happen to have exactly the same chairs at home as me. But I'll show you today how you can take off and customize the tailor-made cut for your chair covers.
Draw the cut
First, you need the dimensions of your chair. I started with the seat, which is trapezoidal in my chair. Just add 1-2 cm to each side of the seat, so that the fabric does not stretch too much when putting it on, and remember the seam allowances!
In the next step, I measure all heights. So the height of the backrest, the seat and the legs. In the side view, I then measure the depth of the backrest.
You can cut each surface individually, taking into account the respective seam allowances. Remember to add a hem allowance to the bottom edge as well.
Tip: If you sew your first chair covers today and those made of non-stretchy material, cut them extra generously! Cut away supernatants is always, but piece, if somewhere missing fabric usually looks ugly.
In any case, you should cut the back of the chair in one piece, especially since a box pleat is also planned. Since a denomination does not look nice.
Sew chair covers
Let's start with the back part. It starts at the back of the chair at the top and goes to the floor where it should be lined. So once the chair height plus seam allowance at the top and seam allowance at the bottom. The width corresponds to the chair width plus seam allowances on both sides AND - because I want to sew a box fold - an additional width of 15 cm. I fold the blank in the middle. My fabric wrinkles slightly, so it's enough to push your thumb over the entire length (otherwise you would have to iron). I mark a distance of 7.5 cm with a length of about 20 cm. In this area I want to keep the cover closed, underneath the fold should be able to open. For the mark I use a Wondermarker. It fades with time and is water soluble. I sew along the mark with triple straight stitch and mark beginning and end.
Now it is a bit tricky: I fold the bow apart in the middle so that it comes to rest exactly on the seam. So I lay down the entire length. It is a bit more difficult where the seam is already off.
Tip: Mark yourself for this step. Fold the fabric at the seam along the entire length or at a distance of 7.5 cm from the bow once and iron over it, you will get three folds in the fabric, where you can align the box fold.
If everything is laid out well, iron the box fold well into the fabric and then insert both sides repeatedly with pins, so that you do not slip during further processing.
At the front of the backrest, I have included in the upper part of the chair depth plus seam allowance, as well on both sides. Below only the seam allowance. The seat is on its own, also with seam allowance and, finally, only the cladding of the chair legs is missing in front and on both sides. I cover these three areas in one go.
Now put all parts to the sample on your chair and put them together. You will see immediately if you are on the right track.
Now sew together the tops of the chair back together. Put both fabrics together in the middle right to the right (ie with the "nice" sides to each other) and stitch them off. The seam becomes especially beautiful when you iron the seam allowances backwards (ie in the direction of the box fold) and stitch them up again with a short edged finish.
Then sew the seat to the front backrest. Lay the resulting piece of fabric over the chair with the left side outwards. Now you can close the sides of the backrest. Do not stretch the fabric too tightly, the box fold should not be under tension in the "normal state", it serves to facilitate the attachment and removal of the chair covers and fulfills a decorative purpose. Remember to also put stitching marks on the top of the backrest.
Carefully remove the cover and sew all parts according to the pin markings. Then apply the cover and attach to the chair again to see if it fits well. If necessary, you can now readjust something. Here you can also see whether the box fold fits well or whether the fabric is too tight.
Now stick the leg cover firmly. I start in the middle of the middle and gradually work on each side backwards and then down. Here is also sewn exactly to the slots of the needles. If you are unsure, lay the husk in the meantime quietly again on the chair. Especially the corners can be a bit tricky if you do this for the first time.
Now only the hem is missing. For this I place the cover on the chair as normal and pull it into the desired end position. Dan I stretch the fabric with my hand down and mark exactly where the fabric meets (under tension) on the floor, once around.
I take the cover from the chair and iron the lower edge exactly at the pins inwards. Then I quilt around edged all around. So that the hem does not tilt outwards, I fold the edge once inside and sew it by hand. This is the only way to sew it tight without it being visible from the outside. For this I put in the bow and then a little further ahead, I take only a single thread of the fabric, then - again ahead - I stab again in the bow.
Do not tighten this seam, it can easily sit relaxed. It needs some time, but for that you will be totally happy with the result.
Almost finished! The result is most beautiful, if you now iron everything again, then you can already dress your chair.
For the final touch, I folded an organza ribbon several times and tied a stitch around the back.
Also tulle is a nice option or silk ribbons. I find it most convenient not to sew the loop right away, as I can exchange it as flexibly and adapt to the occasion. But even without a loop, the chair looks great again, you will not find "> quick guide
1. Create a pattern yourself
2. Cutting (consider margin, seam allowances, hem allowances, possibly plan box fold)
3. box pleat (start sewing, then lay and iron, pin)
4. Sew together the farthest parts, sew on the seat
5. Close the backrest sides, attach the leg cover and sew on
7. Optionally attach bow or other deco
The twisted pirate