Home sewing baby clothesSewing changing mat: free instructions with pattern

Sewing changing mat: free instructions with pattern

  • Material and preparation
    • The material selection
    • The pattern
  • Sew on changing mat

After I already showed you how to sew a changing mat (with pattern) in my diaper bag tutorial, today I would like to devote myself to other variants. The reason for this is the birthday of a kindergarten friend of my son, who desperately wishes changing documents for her dolls. The only difference to a "real" changing mat is the size.

In this tutorial you will learn how to sew a changing mat of different materials for different applications. I will also insert some information and tips on each substance and explain the differences. In detail, I present you today three variants: from cuddly soft to waterproof.

Difficulty level 1-2 / 5
(this manual for changing mat with sewing pattern is also suitable for beginners)

Material costs 1-3 / 5
(Depending on the choice of fabric and variant, the price is variable from EUR 0, - from the remaining utilization to high-priced everything is possible)

Time expenditure 1.5-2 / 5
(depending on ability and fabric type with pattern about 45 minutes per changing mat)
Depending on the area of ​​application, different types of fabric can be used when sewing underwires. Today I would like to show you the following variants:

Version 1:
Sew a changing mat that is waterproof at the bottom, but very soft and cuddly warm towards the top.

Variant 2:
Sew a changing mat that is dirt and water repellent to the underside, but especially absorbent at the top. In addition, it is particularly easy to stow by the folding technique and the closure.

Variant 3:
Sew on a changing mat, one side of which is dirt and water repellent, the other completely waterproof. Due to the thin fabrics, this pad is the ideal changing mat for small bags, since it requires very little space. In addition, it protects your child one hundred percent even on heavily soiled or wet surfaces. It is not very comfortable, but in some applications it is worth gold! An example would be a wet meadow - sometimes it has to be immediately.

Material and preparation

The material selection

For variant 1 I used cotton lamb fleece imitation, furniture fabric and sewing foil. Often advised to waxed cotton fabrics. In comparison, the sewing film is completely waterproof, does not crease and can be used as an additional layer for every motif fabric. In addition, after sewing with waxed cotton fabrics often also a lot of wax on the machine and this must be cleaned more complex than usual, so they continue to work properly. So I've gotten away from it now and a big fan of sewing film. For example, you can buy these here: Sewing foil With sewing foil you can realize many wonderful projects!

The sweet kittens are available here: cat matter

And the fleece in many colors here - because the colored side is actually the "right" side of the fabric, that is, what is usually referred to as the outside: fleece

Variant 2 is made of cotton lamb fleece imitation, anthracite softshell as an insert, which makes the changing mat on both sides less permeable to liquids, as well as terry toweling fabric. Softsthell is dirt and water repellent. So it can be wiped wet and thus easily cleaned, but is not completely waterproof. Terry cloth you know from the bathing area. Here you can also recycle optimally discarded hand and bath towels.

For example, softshell is also available here - even with a magic effect, so you can see at a glance if the fabric is wet or dry: softshell

The third variant is greatly reduced, so that it is particularly space-saving and functional. It consists only of softshell and sewing foil. While the seam sealing tape on the other models can be used optionally, it is essential here that the changing mat is completely waterproof.

The pattern

For a real pattern, a changing pad is actually too simplistic, even if it says "with pattern" in the title. There are no fixed dimensions for this. Even in commerce, the sizes are very different. Personally, I think a size of about 50x70cm very comfortable. Although my doll documents will turn out to be significantly smaller at about 30 × 45 centimeters, the principle is the same.

Tip: Think about how big the changing mat should be and add in the first two variants a generous seam allowance of about one centimeter. With variant three, you cut without seam allowances.

Sew on changing mat

First and foremost, all substances that can fray should be cropped. Sew them over with the overlock or with your sewing machine with a long, long zig-zag stitch along the edges so that the needle stabs alternately into the fabric and then just next to it. This will prevent later threads from loosening or even dissolving the pad in places.

Tip: I avoid ironing in the home, where it only works, but when sewing, each ironing step pays off! Iron once over all folded edges. You will immediately see the difference. The fabric lays much more beautiful and wrinkle-free and they can put the next seams much more accurately.

Version 1:

At the bottom, place the lamb fleece in front of you with the soft side up. Then comes the sewing foil and then the cat's fabric with the motif side down.

Optionally, you can sew seam sealing tape along the edges so that the seams are watertight.

Tip: What exactly makes the seam sealing tape exactly ">

Apply the pad between the sewing foil and lamb fleece. Be careful not to stretch the fleece too much as it will otherwise wear out and have too much fabric length at the turn-around opening. Shape the corners nicely and fold the seam allowances inwards. Put the turning hole together with Wonderclips and sew once around the entire piece of fabric including the opening. Beginning and end are sewn again.

And already the first changing mat is ready!

Variant 2:

As in variant 1, layer all substances in the desired order. Here I would like to have the terry cloth fabric on one side and the lamb fleece on the other. In the middle - as an insert - I use the softshell.

In addition, I would like to attach a closure option with this changing mat. For this I use two pieces of finished cord, which I knot at one end. You can also twist the cords yourself, even use knotted friendship bracelets, grosgrain ribbons, leather ribbons, satin ribbons or simply sewed together diagonal ribbons.

Mark the center of the fabric at the longer edges and place the ribbons with the undeclared side pointing to the edge between the two layers of fabric that should be at the end. In my case between lamb fleece and terry.

Then top off all three layers with a simple straight stitch, leaving the turn-around hole completely open.

If the two sides have different colors, simply choose different thread colors for upper thread and lower thread. Here it is not so significant, but when quilting from the outside you see the thread colors.

Tip: At the points where the cords are sewn in, I would like to tighten them again within the seam allowance so that the stressed seam in front of them is supported.

Again, the corners are cut off at an angle before turning. After I closed the turning opening and stitched it all over again, I mark one third of the fabric in each case. The two markers then move each one centimeter outwards, so that the inner surface is minimally the largest. Here I draw with my trick marker two lines with a distance to the edge of several centimeters. In my case, there are four, but with larger changing documents it can be more. I am now stepping off these lines. On the one hand I have the certainty that the fabric layers will not slip and on the other a guideline how I put my changing mat together.

It folds twice inside and then up again, so that the two cords meet. Tie now and the second changing mat is ready!

Variant 3:

Last but not least: The third changing mat - two layers with edging.
Lay the softshell in front of you with the side facing down. Now put the sewing foil on the soft upper side. Fold the seam tape in the middle and place it accurately around both edges of the fabric and stick it all tight.

Tip: The corners are a bit harder to sew because the seam sealing tape is not very elastic. Round off the corners a bit more in advance. Use a large cup or coffee saucer to make all corners the same. Tighten the seam tape around. At the end, let it overlap by a few inches, sew to the end and lock the seam.

And the third variant is ready!

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