When and how far should one cut back lavender?

• How far to cut "> When to cut in the year?

When and how far you have to cut back a lavender, comes naturally, if you know why a lavender necessarily needs to be cut back regularly. You will find out in the article and much more about the lavender cut.

Lavender is a subshrub, a rather bitchy mixture of herb and shrub in terms of cut. If you know what shrubs are and why lavender is a particularly bitchy subshrub, you can easily prune it (and other shrubs too):

Why the regular cut is so important for lavender

The lavender is a subshrub. It does not mean much to most people, but it does not have to - if you get to know the peculiarities of the shrubbery, this helps a lot to become a lavender expert:

• In terms of growth habit, plants are classified into herb and wood (trees, shrubs).
• Shrubs lignify, more as herbs and less as trees
• Herbs (which can also be flowers) form green, tender plant mass, trees and shrubs green and lots of wood
• Creeping shrubs interfere with something, they gradually lignify from below
• More or less quickly, and to a greater or lesser extent of the entire plant
• They are more or less sensitive or Austriebswillig when cut into the already lignified wood
• If z. If, for example, thyme is very lignified, you can give it a tapering cut to the ground and it will drift unchecked again

However, the more a plant tends to lignify or the faster and better the stems of a plant lignin (which "makes the wood"), the more important it is that you prevent the plant by regular cutting on the woody. In any case, this is important in a subshrub, on whose leaves or flowers you are "sharp" and that forms these leaves or flowers only on green shoots.

You can not simply turn a lavender that is too long / high lignified into a magically tender green bush by rejuvenating your cut, it will never drive you out of the lower gray streams, never again!

Tip: "Old-fashioned" lavender is back in, and if you need to cut your lavender down so it grows nicely, you might remember another old-fashioned habit that many people swear to today: dry laundry in the air, turn white laundry In the sun, wonderfully white, and if you put lavender section under the laundry during drying, which also gets a nice breeze of lavender scent.

Lavender only stays nice and green when cut regularly.

Basically, all you have to do is know that the new shoots of the season are lignified and that, logically enough, this new sprouts must be cut away if the lavender is not to continue lapping.

In order to be able to anchor the thing with the cut-technically difficult half-shrubs once properly in the head, the whole is however explained in more detail below. This works well with the example of lavender, it is one of the difficult shrubs:

How far cut ">

This lignification should not be avoided only for visual reasons, but it also affects the lifespan of the individual shoots of your lavender: During the woody process, the shoot develops ever thicker and stiffer cell walls until the cells are so heavily lignified that they die.

For a young plant, there are two other aspects in the foreground:

1. The more a plant tends to lignify, or the quicker and better the stems of a plant can make lignin (which "makes the wood"), the more important it is to prevent the plant from felling by regular cutting. In any case, this is important in a sub-shrub, on whose leaves or flowers you are "sharp" and which forms these leaves or flowers only on its green shoots.

2. Lavender is said to grow bushier and form a lush bloom when it is spared flowering in the first year and instead is forced to branch harder by cutting in early summer.

Means for the cut: From now on (after purchase), cut away as much of the Neuaustriebs of the current season, but not cut into the old wood (in the lignified areas), so that at the respective shoot still a little green is visible.

When to cut in the year ">

• In the spring is cut
  • once again one to two thirds of the new shoots formed last season
  • before budding