Knitting socks: free instructions for beginners

• material
• knit socks
  • 1) Stitch and cuffs
  • 2) shaft
  • 3) heel
  • 4) heel cup
  • 5) spades
  • 6) foot
  • 7) top
• Tips for quick readers

Knit socks is contrary to the long-running opinion quite simple and the colorful trousers succeed even beginners / problem-free. Dominate right and left stitches, you can get started immediately with our detailed and illustrated knitting pattern and embroider the whole family with cuddly warm socks.

Colorful socks for the whole family, easy to knit

We knitted the stock in a simple ribbed pattern. Socks that collect after a few hours of wear on the ankle or sliding down when taking off the boot are a thing of the past.

The heel is reinforced with a simple lifting stitch pattern. Even if your socks are skating, hiking or working hard, you do not have to worry about the lovingly knitted sock being worn too quickly.

material

• to size 33: 50 grams of 4-ply sock yarn (cost about 4 to 5 euros)
• Size 33 - 46: 100 grams 4-ply sock yarn (cost about 8 to 10 euros)
• 1 needle size of 2.5
• possibly 1 row counter, pen, paper, residual yarn

Tip: Use a 15-inch long needles game commercially available under the name "Glove Match". Fiddling with these shorter needles is much easier.

Please note: Every foot is different and the information in this table can only be a guideline. If possible, let the person for whom you manufacture the socks slip carefully into the unfinished knit fabric. So you can optimally adjust the heel height, the spike and the foot length on the foot.

Tip: Beginners who have never knitted socks should make a 10 x 10 cm mesh. 30 meshes in width and 42 rows in height must give a 10 x 10 centimeter square. If your stitches deviate from these values, you should work with slightly thinner (needle size 2.25) or slightly thicker (needle size 2.75) needles to ensure that the socks fit well.

Tip for processing yarns where the pattern comes out of the ball.

In the current sock yarns, which you industrially manufactured or received in loving small series of Handfärberinnen, the pattern comes straight from the ball. While the hand-dyed yarns are usually individually patterned, industrial yarns show regular color gradients. If you want two absolutely identical socks, you should choose a position for the stitch stop where two clearly distinguishable colors meet. For the second sock, wind the yarn up to this point in the repeat.

knit socks

1) Stitch and cuffs

Beat the number of stitches given in the table evenly across the 4 needles of the game. Close the stitches to the round and continue to knit one stitch on the left in the pattern 1 stitch on the right. Continue working in the cuff pattern until you reach about a quarter of the shaft height.

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Tip: Be careful not to twist the stitches of the individual needles. Arrange the needles lying flat on a table so that all stitches are correct and then pick up the knitting carefully.

2) shaft

In order for the stem to fit snugly to the leg, it knits in a simple ribbed pattern. Start with the pattern at the beginning of the round (needle with the stop thread) and knit * 1 stitch on the right, 3 stitches on the left *. Repeat from * to * consecutively. The required shaft height can also be found in the size chart.

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Tip: Run one piece of remaining yarn every 5 or 10 rows. This makes it easier to count the rows so that both socks are guaranteed to be the same size. Alternatively, you can make a note of the knitted rows.

3) heel

For the heel, first knit the stitches of the first three needles in a ribbed pattern. Then knit the stitches of the fourth needle and the first needle in the reinforced lift stitch pattern onto a needle.

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1st row (front): edge stitch, * 1 stitch on the right, 1 stitch on the right to lift off and continue the thread behind the needle (picture) * repeat continuously from * to *, edge stitch.

2nd row (back): edge stitch, all following stitches left work, edge stitch.

Repeat these 2 pattern rows until the heel height indicated in the table is reached. The edge stitches are always knitted on the right. This creates a knot edge from which you can later easily knit new stitches.

Tip: Since the ranks of this pattern are not easy to count, beginners should note the number of rows on a piece of paper or use a row counter.

4) heel cup

The heel coping is embroidered in rows on the right to conform to the foot.

1st row: Knitting half of the stitches on the needle to the right. Work the next stitch on the right side, 1 st as off to the right knit, knit the next stitch on the right and cover the lifted stitch. Knit a stitch on the right, turn.

2nd row: Knit the first stitch as if to the left, knit 3 stitches on the left, knit 2 stitches on the left, 1 stitch on the left, turn.

3rd row: Unfasten 1 stitch as if to the left, knit until the stitched stitch of the previous row (4 stitches), 1 stitch on the right, knit one stitch on the right, and slip off the lifted stitch. 1 stitch right, turn.

4th row: Lift off the 1st stitch as if left to knit until knitting in front of the off-the-stitch stitch of the previous row. Knit 2 stitches on the left, 1 stitch on the left. Turn.

Continue in this way until all stitches are used up.

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If there is an odd number of stitches, no stitch will be lifted in the last two rows before turning. Instead, lift off the knitted stitches.

5) spades

In order to be able to work the foot part in rounds again, you have to pick up the side edges of the heel stitches and one stitch each from the cross thread of the 1st and 2nd as well as the 3rd and 4th needle. You can find out how many stitches you need to take for each size in the sock chart.

Working method: Knit the half-heel stitches on a needle. Knit off the second half of the heel sts for a new needle and pick up the stitches on the heel side, knitting the last stiches out of the cross thread between the 1st and 2nd stitched right sides.

Knitt off the stitches of the second needle on the right, as well as the stitches of the third needle. From the transverse thread between the 3rd and 4th needle and the side edge of the heel pick up the required number of stitches again.

Tip: The knot edge makes it easy to pick up the stitches. Pierce through a small knot from the front to the back and pick up the thread as for a right stitch. This results in a very flat edge that does not push in shoes.

On the first and fourth needle are now significantly more stitches than on the 2nd and 3rd needle. Knit one round on the right over the recorded stitches. To form the spine in the next round knit the second and third last stitches of the first needle to the right. For the fourth needle, lift off the second stitch on the right, knit the third stitch on the right, and pull the lifted stitch over it. Repeat these decreases every other round until the same number of stitches are on all 4 needles.

Tip: If the instep is very high, take off half of the Spickelmaschen in every 3rd round and the other half of the Spickelmaschen in every 2nd round.

6) foot

Continue knitting until the foot length specified in the sock chart is reached. It is measured from the side edge of the heel.

Tip: You can determine the correct length by putting on the socks. Carefully pull on the unfinished sock should the knit cover the little toe.

7) top

For the ribbon lace, remove stitches at the end of the 1st and 3rd needle and at the beginning of the 2nd and 4th needle every 2 rounds.

On the 1st and 3rd needle knit to the third last stitch, knit 2 stitches on the right and the last stitch on the right.

On the 2nd and 4th needle knit the first stitch on the right, lift off a stitch as if knitting to the right, put 1 stitch on the right and the stitched stitch on. 1 stitch on the right.

This is followed by a second round without acceptance and again a round with acceptance. Right and left of the top, the declines form a band-shaped line, which gave this tip its name.

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Tip: People with very long toes or a pointed foot shape need a longer sock tip. You can take half of the stitches in every third row, similar to the spike, and the remaining stitches in every other row will give you a slightly more pointed sock shape. Another option is to remove one-third of the stitches to be taken every third row, another third in every other row, and the remaining stitches in each row.

As soon as the number of stitches specified in the sock chart is reached, the sock is closed in a stitch stitch.

Alternatively you can spread the stitches on 2 knitting needles and turn them carefully. Now knit a stitch of the front with a stitch of the rear needle right. Repeat this step and cover the first stitched stitch so that the first stitch is bound off directly. Repeat this step continuously until all the stitches are knitted together and chained to both needles. Pull through the last stitch and sew on the thread.

The first sock is ready - was not difficult, or "> tips for quick readers

• Use a glove game with 15 cm needle length
• Beginners should make a stitch test
• Refer to the size chart and mesh size in the size chart
• Occasionally try socks
• Adjust the length of the shaft, foot and gusset to the individual foot shape
• Knit socks a bit more tightly, so that they do not stretch and fit well when worn.