Sew on the zipper - DIY instructions

• material selection
• Continuous zipper
• cut out
  • Half concealed zipper
  • "Normal" zipper
  • Concealed zipper

One of the most common questions is after sewing a zipper. That's why I want to show you today three different variants: once "normal" sewn (with visible zipper without visible seam lines), a half-concealed zipper and finally a concealed zipper.

Difficulty level 2.5 / 5
(conditionally suitable for beginners)

Material costs 1/5
(depending on the choice of material and length between € 0, - from the remaining value and € 5, -)

Time expenditure 1/5
(about 0.5 hours each)

material selection

The starting material is usually the workpiece that you are currently working on. In my case, I opted for high quality cotton fabric. In addition, you only need a zipper. I like to work with endless zippers, because I always have the right length for my project at home. But you can also take any other zipper that fits the project and the fabric selection. Normally you will find the corresponding information on the type and length of the required zipper in the respective pattern.
I have deliberately chosen different colors for fabrics and zippers so that you can see everything well.

Continuous zipper

How to properly thread an endless zipper is difficult to explain. But there are plenty of educational videos on the internet. At the beginning, it may not work so well, but once you get the hang of it, it'll be pretty quick.

Tip: If you are unsure at the beginning, lock the endless zipper before sewing, then nothing can slip and the slider is not accidentally pushed off the spikes.

cut out

You will not have to cut it, as you already have a finished cut and only need some help with the insertion of the zipper. I've cut smaller fabric pieces out of cotton fabric. Of course you can also work with jersey or other fabrics.

Half concealed zipper

First, the fabrics are finished! But you certainly have already done so.

Then put both fabrics right to right (ie with the beautiful sides) together and stitch that seam with a simple straight stitch into which the zipper should be sewn. To do this, mark in advance the planned length of the zipper and save this area. Both seams are sewn on both sides.

Then follows an important step: The seam is ironed from the left! Thus, you have two beautiful straight edges on the front.

Now put the zipper in the middle of the seam and pin both sides. Then the workpiece is turned. Then insert everything again from the beginning and remove the rear needles.

Tip: Ideally, use your own zipper foot for the sewing machine. Of course you can also sew with the standard foot, in which case, however, it is advisable to position the needle on the left or on the right.

Now open the slider a bit and start to sew. Sew completely around where you put the needles. Whenever the slider comes, lower the needle into the fabric, lift the foot, turn the fabric a little and gently push the slider over. So you can continue sewing. And the zipper is already sewn in.

"Normal" zipper

At the beginning, the material is prepared again: if you have an endless zipper, thread the slider on. If necessary, lock the ends.

Now the zipper is opened about half way and you put it exactly on the edge right to right on the fabric. Then sew with a simple straight stitch near the edge. When you get to the slider, lower the needle into the fabric, raise the presser foot again and gently push it up to continue sewing. Then put the other edge of the zipper on the opposite edge of the fabric (right to right), put it firmly and sew this side as well as the first one. When you get back to the slider, release the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and push it up. Now the zipper only needs to be closed and turned.

Tip: Before you start to sew on the zipper, please check whether it lies with the right side outwards!

Concealed zipper

As with the last two variants, prepare again here the material accordingly. You thread the slider on the endless zipper and lock the ends if necessary.

First of all, place the two pieces of fabric right-to-right on top of each other and then stitch with the greatest possible straight stitch about 2 cm away from the edge. The beginning and the end are sewn in each case.

Now iron the resulting seam allowances apart.

Now place the zipper right side down in the middle of the seam and put it firmly in place. Then the zipper is opened. Now sew the first side of the zipper so that the outer edge of the presser foot is flush with the edge of the seam allowance. Now turn the workpiece and open the zipper, so that you can stitch the fabric again with a short edged finish. Then the zipper is closed and you stuck beginning and end on both sides, so that the fabric rests nicely smooth. Now turn the workpiece again and place pins at a distance of 1.5 cm from the seam edge.

At this line you sew along. If a slider is reached while sewing, lower the needle into the fabric and lift the presser foot. Then you can already begin to separate the stapling seam (the one from the beginning) so that you can grab the slider and pull it to the right. Now all you have to do is cross-stitch at the bottom until the end of the fold and sew with two stitches. Then you separate the remaining stitching, and Voilá: the concealed zipper is ready!

Quick Guide Variant 1 - half-concealed zipper:

1. Eliminate fabric edges
2. Roughly stitch fabrics right to right (about 2cm from edge)
3. Iron on seam allowance
4. Prepare zipper (thread in case of continuous zipper and lock if necessary)
5. Place the zipper in the middle and fix it
6. Sew on the zipper (first one side, then the other) and lock
7. Turning - ready!

Quick guide Version 2 - "normal" zipper:

1. Eliminate fabric edges
2. Prepare zipper (thread with endless zipper and lock if necessary)
3. Open the zipper, place it on the edges on the right side and secure it
4. Sew on the zipper (first one side, then the other) and lock
5. Turning - ready!

Quick guide Variant 3 - hidden zipper:

1. Eliminate fabric edges
2. Sew fabrics together right to right (zipper opening)
3. Prepare zipper (thread with endless zipper and lock if necessary)
4. Iron on seam allowance
5. Place the zipper in the middle and fix it
6. Open and sew on the zipper (first side) and sew
7. Stitch the selvedge and the zipper edge edgewise
8. Close the zipper, turn it and fix it at the beginning and at the end
9. Insert the mark and mark at a distance of 1.5 cm from the seam edge
10. Sew along this line, sever the stapling seam at the slide and push through
11. Turn 90 ° and sew to the bow and sew
12. Separate remaining stitching and remove threads - done!

The twisted pirate