Wallpaper woodchip yourself - DIY Guide
- Roughened wallpaper
- 1. Measuring and calculating
- 2. Material and tools
- 3. Prepare the surface
- 4. Paper the ceiling
- 5. Cropping
- 6. Mix the paste
- 7. Paste the wallpaper
- 8. Attach wallpaper
- 9. To paper doors and radiators
- 10. Paper around the corner
- 11. Crop edges
- 12. Coat woodchip
You can put woodchip on the wall yourself, even if you're dealing with wallpaper for the first time in your life. At first glance, the DIY tutorial is simple, but there are many a little trick you can do to make life and wallpapering easier.
Wallpapering woodchip itself is not very difficult and will work even faster if you do it in a reasonable order:
1. Measuring and calculating
Good preparation is everything that, when wallpapering, means first of all measuring the surfaces to be papered. Per room:
Length of the wall x height, the 4 times, minus windows, doors and other surfaces that do not need to be wallpapered (paneled heaters eg).
The closer you want to subtract these areas from your needs, the more likely it is to make a plan of each wall and to "draw" the future wallpaper "on the wall".
But you do not have to - classic, white woodchip is available for 52 cents per square meter, the Erfurt Rauhfaser Classico z. B. in a track length of 25 m and a track width of 0.53 m is sold.
At 120 m demand for woodchip wallpaper you need almost 5 rolls á 6, 85 € = 34, 25 € for the whole 60 sqm including waste. Since at least parents with malbegeisterten children will not bother to figure out windows and doors.
2. Material and tools
If you have calculated what has to be purchased on material, the required tool comes on the grocery list:
- Papering table for cutting
- Cutter knife or wallpaper scissors
- Folding ruler or centimeter measure
- Kleistereimer (or Kleistergerät)
- stir stick
- thick, brush-like brush (Quast)
- Wallpaper (extra paste for thinning, primer, coating waste)
- Wallpapering scraper and / or edge trim rail or other cutting edge
- Paste roll with a long style
- Chalk line (Lot)
- wallpaper tracks
- wallpaper paste
- Brush and white color
3. Prepare the surface
If the wall is already wallpapered, this old wallpaper must first down. But if you want to wallpaper a freshly plastered wall, the wall should first be primed, so that the substrate is solidified and its absorbency is regulated. You can do this immediately with 1: 7 diluted paste (remember to buy more paste accordingly).
If on a wall individual places with plaster, Wandspachtel o.ä. Before repainting, you should also roll over the wall with the roll to make the surface uniformly absorbent. Whether you use the best diluted paste, coating waste or deep primer as wallpapering depends on the nature of the wall.
All in all, the substrate must conform to the standards, and the expression refers to what a craftsman responsible for his work should find. For self wallpapering that simply means that it must be dry, firm, even and absorbent.
After the primer has dried, a careful tour of the room follows. All protruding nails must be pulled with a pair of pliers, they will later tear the wallpaper on. If dowels are in the wall and should stay in the wall, because they want to use them later, they must be marked, for example with a match. But then you should know about where to look for the protruding matchheads later to cut and remove them carefully.
Behind the radiators, you must brush once with the brush and white paint. The wall behind it you will not be able to paper completely - so just paint and later wallpaper the edges of the wallpaper as far as possible on the color.
Now the wall is almost ready. Now only the covers of the light switches and sockets need to be removed. Of course, after you have turned off the associated fuse, check with the phase tester and have informed all concerned about turning off the fuse.
During wallpapering and drying please keep windows and doors closed and switch off the heating.
4. Paper the ceiling
If the ceiling is to be wallpapered, this happens in front of the walls. Normally, blankets are only painted today and you start wall papering on the wall.
This is how it starts: With a simple woodchip, where you do not have to take any pattern into account, you can choose depending on the room situation in the apartment whether you want to cut all the webs and store them in a separate room or cut them, if required, by train.
The right length of track: height of the room plus 5 to 10 cm addition - how much exactly should the dealer or the product description of the wallpaper tell you.
6. Mix the paste
Use the appropriate paste for the respective wallpaper type:
You can also use normal wallpaper paste for normal roughage. Whether you need a special paste for particularly fine or particularly rough woodchip, you should inquire when buying wallpaper.
You need special paste if you want to wallpaper a room for allergy sufferers. Matching the corresponding wallpaper (eg from Brillux) also includes a certain paste
If you are using a pasteboard, you should use a special wallpaper glue paste.
Information on the right type of paste can usually be found on the roller feeder of the wallpaper.
The starting ratio is on the package:
- Wallpapering paste 1:30
- Special paste 1:20
Mix the paste with cold, clean water. It is important to stir quickly - ie first stir the water with the stirring rod, then quickly add the powder. Stir until everything is evenly mixed - the paste may have to stand a little and be stirred again.
7. Paste the wallpaper
Once the paste has been stirred in and swollen according to the packing instructions, you can start:
The wallpaper strips are evenly pasted and then put together on the table so that only touch the pasted pages. Then they can be rolled up or folded and set aside for soaking.
Make sure that each lane is sufficiently long and evenly soaked - this is the only way to bring the wallpaper to the wall properly.
8. Attach wallpaper
Start wallpapering at the window - walls will be wallpapered with light.
How to proceed:
Measure from the middle of the window where the first lane must start, so that the lanes to the left and right cover part of the window and part of the walls next to it.
Put the first sheet on the ceiling with the cut overhang. Align this first lane in the middle of the window with a lot or spirit level exactly perpendicular - only then the adjacent lanes are also straight. Press this web (like all of the following) bubble-free from the center to the side with wallpapering brush or sponge rubber roller. If this leaks paste, it should be immediately dabbed with a damp sponge or cloth.
To the right and left of this, tracks hit windows and walls. These are cut horizontally in the area of the window, folded into the soffit and pressed. If wallpaper still comes on the window surface, this supernatant is cut away before pressing so that the wallpaper can fit relaxed in the soffit.
After that, the adjacent tracks are wallpapered on impact
9. To paper doors and radiators
Just take doors with you as they accommodate you. At some point you arrive at a door with a lane, then carefully press the lane against the wall, roughly cut off the overhang, smooth the lane and then cut it clean at the door edge.
Then comes a train that lands on the top edge of the door frame, where it just has to be cut off horizontally. Repeat this on the other side of the door.
Behind the radiators you should paper the outer few centimeters, as it works straight from the web width. Therefore, the radiators are previously generously surrounded with white paint.
10. Paper around the corner
If the width of the web does not rise exactly from the window, which is almost always the case, you have to paper around the corner. Actually, but not "wallpapered around the corner", but a track tailored so that it reaches an inch or two around the corner. This supernatant is now cut several times horizontally with the scissors, so that small triangles can be removed:
Then the train comes to the wall. On the wall around the corner a new web is glued and over the strip with the triangles.
11. Crop edges
Edges are best cut with a special edge trimming rail with a specially shaped profile. This is to make the cleanest finish on the ceiling and skirting board, because it allows exact approach to compensate for height differences, without damaging the substrate or make the knife blade dull.
Many do-it-yourselfers are also good at cutting along the wallpapering scraper or at another cutting edge.
12. Coat woodchip
If the woodchip is dried, it can be painted after about 12-24 hours.
Now only the openings for sockets and light switch (over which was papered over it) smaller than the covers must be cut out. Then the covers of the sockets and light switches can be re-attached - and you're done!
Paint colorful instead of wallpapering
If you're dealing with a woodchip that looks "bumpy" but otherwise hangs tight against the wall - and you do not know exactly what that wall will look like when you pull it down, it may be better to just paint over it,
Clean the woodchip so well, then mend it and possibly create a uniform surface with primer. Then the desired color comes to the wall, uni, in several soft gradations or maybe also really colorful: