Home generalRoute Lawngrills - DIY Guide

Route Lawngrills - DIY Guide

  • Material and preparation
  • Lay lawn grass stones
    • 1st underground
    • 2nd edging
    • 3rd base layer
    • 4. Install the laying bed
    • 5. Lay lawn grass stones
    • 6. Shake it off
    • 7. Fill cavities
    • 8. Green grass pawns
  • Costs and prices
  • Instructions - short form

Grass pavers make it possible to green areas and areas around the house. At the same time it is ensured that the area of ​​people or even cars can be safely and safely crossed. Grass pavers are a truly ecological alternative to closed areas, because not only can plants grow here, but rainwater can also seep into the ground.

Laying paving stones is pretty easy and it's almost self-explanatory. Preparing the substrate so that the stones last for a long time and the water runs well takes a little more time and expertise. With regard to the underground, a few points have to be considered in advance. Because depending on the material and later loading of the surface, a corresponding substructure must be created. Proper construction is important so that the grass pavers will last for a long time later. Finally, no corners should splinter or sink the stones into the ground. In these cases, dangerous stumbling blocks or rain puddles form.

Material and preparation

Before going to work, you should think carefully whether the lawn grid area should be passable by car or not. For an area that will later carry large weights (like a car), a much deeper excavation and a compression of the ground are necessary so that it does not yield under the weight and sinks. In areas that are pedestrian-only, only a small amount of garden soil needs to be dug. A layer of gravel is not absolutely necessary in pure pedestrian areas, insofar as these are covered with plastic grass lawn stones. For reasons of stability, grass pavers made of concrete always require a substrate made of ballast.

Tip: The grass pavers should protrude slightly above the ground area. Just enough that they do not become a trip-trap. Increased installation prevents puddles from forming in the rain.

Tool:

  • Shovel and spade for the excavation
  • Pickaxe (on hard ground)
  • Guideline and fastenings such as metal bars or wooden sticks
  • spirit level
  • wide wooden board (to straighten the surface)
  • Vibrating plate (loaner, max. 130 kg and 20 kN, plus hard rubber apron)
  • Rubber mallet (to align the stones)
  • Stone cutter (for dividing the grass paver from concrete)
  • Jig saw for plastic lawn grass stones

List of materials:

  • Grass pavers
  • Gravel (grain size 0 to 45 mm or similar)
    Natural stone chippings (grain size 2-6 mm or similar)
  • Garden earth or potting soil, sand (for the interstices)
  • lawn grass seeds
  • Curbs (lawn edge stones for lateral completion)

Tip: Instead of gravel, alternatively mineral concrete or concrete recycling can be used. All three materials can be compacted well. Anyone who has a choice in the building materials trade can opt for the cheapest alternative.

For which areas are grass pavers ">

Grass pavers are ideal for all areas that are optically integrated into the garden, but still have to be easily accessible or passable. Here, for example, a walkway, a driveway, parking or roadsides come into question.

Lay lawn grass stones

Once all the tools have been procured and the materials have been purchased, laying of the grass pavers can be started. This works best step by step.

1st underground

The first step is at the same time the most important and difficult step in the laying of grass pavers. It consists in preparing the underground accordingly. A good soil preparation is basically necessary if grass pavers are to be laid out of concrete.

First, the area is staked, on which the grass pavers are to be laid later. With spade and shovel you now lift the entire surface. The depth of the excavation depends on whether the area is only accessible by foot or should be suitable for driving by car.

  • Driveways: 35 cm
  • Parking: 40 cm
  • Truck entrances and parking spaces: at least 50 cm
  • Pedestrian walks: 25 cm

Once the excavation is completed, the soil in the entire area is compacted with a vibrator. This ensures that the floor does not lower later on load, frost or rain and thus cause unwanted dents.

Tip: Large surfaces or a very deep excavation are almost impossible to do by hand. In these cases, it should be considered to order a small excavator and also a container for the excavation.

2nd edging

An area that is covered with grass pavers requires an all-round edging. This edging has the task to prevent shifts of the stones. Lawn edging stones are suitable, for example, for bordering. Lawn edging stones are available in different heights and widths. The fastest way to lay so-called deep curbs, since the concrete blocks are quite wide. The border should be aligned with a guideline and stand out about 4 cm above ground level. Front sides of the sidewalk are relatively flush with the surface to install, otherwise dangerous tripping hazards arise.

3rd base layer

... for roadable lawn grid install

Next, the ballast (or mineral concrete) is filled. Gravel should always be installed in layers. This means that initially only a part of the ballast is filled into the excavated area and this is then "shaken off" with the vibrating plate. You compact the gravel in layers. This achieves a significantly higher compression than shaking a thick layer of ballast. The subsoil gains in strength. By compacting the individual grains / stones move closer together in the gravel, therefore, about 3 cm more gravel should be included. In large areas, it makes sense to order the truckloads of gravel at intervals in succession and not to deliver everything at once. Then there is always enough time to distribute and shake off. For driveways, a gravel layer of about 20-25 cm, with paths about 10 cm makes sense.

With the installation of the ballast you are done, if after compaction from the upper edge of the ballast to the later plaster top edge still a height of 11 cm remains. This distance is calculated after the layer of chippings (4 cm) plus the height of the paving stones (usual height 8 cm). For other lawn paver heights this must be adjusted accordingly.

Tip: Allow gravel and grass pavers to be unloaded as close as possible to the area to be filled. This saves a lot of time and sweat!

4. Install the laying bed

Over the compacted gravel layer now comes another layer of grit. This gravel layer serves as laying bed for the grass pavers and should be placed at a height of about 4-5 cm. Incidentally, the stability of the chippings increases significantly if a few kilograms of fine clay mineral per cubic meter are added.

5. Lay lawn grass stones

Lay out a guide cord and smooth a small part of the surface (at the back) on which the grass pavers are laid first with the wooden board. Now you can start laying the stones. Before you start, it is important to read the enclosed manufacturer's manuals for the grass pavers. There are special features that must be followed when laying necessarily. In principle, one can follow the following procedure:

Concrete grass pavers:

  • Just place stones next to each other and align with the curbs
  • leave gaps of 3-5 mm between the stones (expansion joints)
  • tap with the rubber mallet
  • If necessary, use the stonecutter or wet cutter to bring the curbs to the correct size

Watch out! If the grass pavers are later shaken off with a vibrating plate, the stones must be about 1 cm above floor level when laying, because they still settle when shaking!

Plastic grass pavers:

  • Hook lawn pavers into each other (necessary on many models)
  • If necessary, attach ground anchors to the ground
  • Crop curbs with a jigsaw or similar

So gradually the entire area is designed with grass pavers. Always make sure that the laying bed is oriented very straight so that the stones rest completely over their entire surface. If you have the impression that the stones are not lying straight, because they wobble a bit, you can use the following trick when walking the loosely laid lawn pavers. For this purpose, some sand is sprinkled on the surface and this slipped gently with fanned water jet. Repeat the procedure two to three times. Wait at least half an hour after each pass to allow the water to drain and the ground to settle. The sand is flushed into the cavities and stabilizes the substructure.

6. Shake it off

Regardless of the stone thickness, concrete paver bricks are compacted with a maximum vibrating plate of 130 kg and about 20 kN. Plastic lawn pavers should never be treated with the vibrator as the plastic will break. To prevent damage to the stones (and the vibrating plate), a protective device must be mounted on the plate of the vibrator. For this purpose, for example, a hard rubber apron in question. Shaking is always carried out evenly from the edge area, starting in the middle of the laying surface. If you do not have a vibrating plate, you can knock the stones in with the rubber mallet.

7. Fill cavities

When the grass pavers are laid and shaken, most of the work is done. Now only the cavities in and between the stones have to be filled.

For this purpose, the mixed with a little sand topsoil is first applied over a large area with the garden shovel and swept with a street or whisk (with hard bristles) from all sides into the cavities. A little manual labor is needed, because the earth is still too loose in the cavities. Therefore it has to be pulped a little bit. This works best with a piece of wood that has a flat surface at the bottom (such as a squarewood or similar). As a rule, only a quarter of the original ground level remains after pounding. Therefore, the procedure is repeated until the holes are well filled with soil after pounding.

Afterwards drive again with the (protected) vibrating plate over the surface. Alternatively, instead of topsoil and grass, round pebbles can be filled.

Tip: Now you're done. The grass fence and the earth have to settle in the next few weeks (about 1 month). Then again some topsoil is refilled.

8. Green grass pawns

For most grass pavers, the filling should be a few millimeters below the top edge (follow the manufacturer's instructions). It is best to water the soil gently with the garden hose before sowing the lawn without rinsing the soil. When planting lawn grass stones, you should choose a good seed mixture, which is particularly suitable for lawn grass greening (ask your dealer). The area should be carefully watered in case of dryness.

Since the grass pavers protect the young grasses well, the fresh lawn can be mown unusually early without harming it. At the beginning of its growth, a regular cut will do well to the fresh grass and promote its development.

Tip: The Research Association Landscape Development Landscaping eV has put together different seed mixtures, among which you will also find optimal mixtures for the landscaping of grass pavers.

Costs and prices

As an example of required quantities of material and prices is calculated with an area of ​​10 m² and the dimensions 2.5 x 4 m.

  • Concrete grass paver (60x40x8 cm): 1.50 per piece - 62 euros per 10 m²
  • Plastic grass paver: about 150-200 Euro per 10 m²
  • Deep curb (100x30x8 cm): about 4-5 euros per running meter - total 55-60 euros
  • Gravel (0-45 mm) for a layer height of 25 cm: 2.5 m³, equivalent to 5 tons (including compression) - about 50 euros plus delivery
  • Pavement chippings 2-5 mm, height 5 cm: 0.5 m³, equivalent to 0, 9 t - 15 euros plus delivery
  • Parking lawn RSM 5.1.1 GF 510 (application rate 25 g per m²): 10 kg - 50 Euro

Instructions - short form

  • the greatest effort causes the attachment of the substrate
  • especially when cars drive on the surface
  • Delimit laying surface and lift
  • Depending on the type of use, a certain depth is necessary
  • Driveways and parking: 35-50 cm
  • pure pedestrian areas: 25 cm
  • Compact surface with vibrator
  • Introduce gravel layer, compact layer by layer
  • Plastic grass grids can be laid without a gravel layer
  • Laying bed of chippings: 4-5 cm
  • Straighten the surface with a wooden board
  • Lay grass pavers according to the manufacturer's instructions
  • pat in with the rubber mallet
  • shake with a vibrating plate (with a rubber apron)
  • Bring in the earth, press in well
  • let set about 1 month
  • Sprinkle grass seeds
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