Sewing baby bloomers - instructions & free sewing pattern
- amount of material
- Take a cut
- cut out
- Sew bloomers
- Sew cuffs
- Further information
- Variant for toddlers
Are you new parents ">
Quick and easy to self-sewn bloomers / baby pants
Lately, a trend is developing that makes me especially happy: More and more expectant and newly minted mothers are discovering sewing for themselves! Often then comes the question of what to start with, because "everything" looks so very difficult at first and maybe only once a scarf to practice must suffice. But I see it very differently: EVERYONE CAN SEW! With the right pattern and a good explanation you can also start directly with baby clothes. If written instructions are initially insufficient, there are also plenty of videos on the internet that describe the detailed procedure.
At the beginning it is recommended to sew with jersey. This type of fabric does not fritter and pardons small errors and irregularities that may occasionally occur at the beginning. Especially for babies Jersey is usually the fabric of choice, as it is stretchy and soft. So there's nothing wrong with starting your first sweetheart with the first piece of clothing right away. Currently in demand are pump pants with cheerful designs, in which freedom of movement is not restricted.
Difficulty level 2/5
(suitable for beginners)
Material costs 1.5 / 5
(depending on the choice of fabric between EUR 0, - from the remaining utilization and EUR 20, -)
Time expenditure 2/5
(including pattern about 2h)
As already mentioned, in this case Jersey is the first choice for beginners. In principle, however, any type of fabric can be used. The rule is: If the fabric that is being processed is stiffer, thicker and less stretchy, you should basically sew one size larger and then adjust it to the correct size via the cuffs. I opted for an organic cotton jersey with elephant and rainbow design (Rainbowphant by Lillestoff).
amount of material
Depending on the pattern, the amount of material may vary slightly. Many fabric dealers offer standard increments of 0.5 meters times VB (full width). This is more than enough for a baby panties (up to size 98) and it should definitely emanate from the fabric remnants even a bonnet.
There are different patterns for bloomers on the internet for every taste. Many of them can also be downloaded for free, some are chargeable. There are pictures in all of them that help you to see the finished piece as a whole. I decided in this tutorial for the cut "Summer Sea" from the popular design booklet OTTOBRE (3/2013). I have chosen this cut, because it is very easy to implement with only two seams and - as soon as you have transferred the pattern in the right size - you can sew several of them very quickly.
Take a cut
You print out the pattern, stick the corresponding sides together and either cut out the appropriate size or match the appropriate size. The Abpausen has the great advantage that you can later transfer even the other sizes and not reprint and stick together.
Variant fashion booklet:
You choose the right pattern for the right cut and then match it in the required size.
Tip: I label each piece of pattern directly with name, booklet, size, additional information (such as cuff height), material break (if available), threadline, piece numbering (eg if a cut several pieces are cut) and an info, if seam allowances are already included or even have to be added. This saves you a long search, if you want to sew the cut again after some time.
You can pause on a variety of materials - but it have proven thin paper roll or solid, transparent film.
Note: In this tutorial I want to show both of my favorite abutment materials and an alternative to leg cuffs for larger sizes, so I decided to also sew sibling trousers of the same fabric (a few sizes larger).
What size should it actually be ">
As with the purchase clothes, the size specification of the patterns corresponds to the height of the child. However, as there are slimmer and stronger babies and toddlers, there are always size differences. If you want to be on the safe side, just put a well-fitting pair of pants next to your cut and choose the right size.
When the pattern is created, you can start cutting directly. Threadline (FL) is the name of the line along the side edge. Material break means that I fold the fabric at this point and cut it in two layers. If you are unsure at the beginning of the threadline, imagine what the design on the finished pants should look like and lay the pattern accordingly. In the great kids' designs, it's either very clear what's up and down, or they're so patterned that it does not matter. Then, however, attention should be paid to the threadline.
In my bloomers the material break is in the middle, because only at the back of the buttocks a seam is provided. My motive is patterned so that it is not important to me to have a specific place right in the middle. If this is the case for you, then fold your fabric EXACTLY AT THIS POINT for the material break and without seam allowance!
Now I put the pattern on and pin it with needles, so that nothing slips. Now I can crop. I do it by eye with seam allowance. If you are still unsure, however, you can place markings about 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the pattern (depending on the setting of your sewing machine or overlock) at regular intervals, so that you can orient yourself when cutting out.
Now I remove the pattern and put the two fabric layers together on the back side, along the first seam (the buttocks seam). If I now open the two layers of fabric and align the back seam so that it comes to rest in the middle, you can already see the two "legs" on the underside.
So I pin again, starting in the middle, and close this seam. Now I turn my workpiece and you can already guess what the finished pants will look like.
Tip: For stretchable fabrics, always select the appropriate stitch type for your sewing machine. If there is no jersey or stretch stitch, choose a tight zigzag stick to keep the seam from tearing when stretched! Even with the needle used, you should pay attention to the right selection. The best way to read the instructions in the manufacturer's manual.
You can also find another guide to cuffing in the article on the baby bag: //www.zhonyingli.com/pucksack-naehen/
Now measure the upper opening of the panty from side to side. Multiply this number by 2 and then by 0.7. Then add 1 cm seam allowance - you already have your cuff width.
The height can vary as you like. If the pants are to fit over several sizes (babies grow more in length than in width), so you take a higher cuff, which you can fold or unfold as needed. This applies to both the abdominal and leg cuffs. In my case, the cuff should be 5 cm high. Same with the leg cuffs.
So that it can be sewn quickly, easily and beautifully, I measure it twice the height, so 10 cm. (If the cuff is to be 10 cm high, 20 cm height is needed, etc.)
Halve the cuff fabric first in the width (the "stripes" in the fabric run from top to bottom, it is sewn laterally) and quilt this with a simple straight stitch. Mark opposite corners with front center pins. Fold the seam allowances apart and lay the fabric so that the seam allowances are at the top.
Now fold the cuff fabric up so that the edges come together. Secure the two layers of the seam allowances with a pin. Now fold down the top layer and put it over all three other layers, so that it comes to the bottom. The "nice" side of your cuff fabric is now on the outside. Now lay the cuff so that the needle comes to rest on one side, smooth the fabric and also mark the opposite side with a needle. Now lay the cuff fabric so that both needles overlap each other and also mark the outside edges with pins. Thus, the cuff is "quartered" by the pins.
Mark on the trousers also these quarters - as well as the cuffs, experienced seamstresses can put even at two points markings, front and back offers itself. The cuff is now placed outside on the right (the "beautiful") fabric side and pinned at the quarter marks. You have to slightly stretch the cuff. That's not easy the first time, but you'll have it out quickly. The cuff seam is best placed at the back of the buttocks seam of the pants.
Now sew all three layers of fabric (once trouser fabric and twice cuff fabric) with the usual seam allowance all around and sew at the beginning and end.
If you are sewing a cuff for the first time, here are a few small additional information:
Begin just after the buttocks seam and sew the beginning. Lower the needle into the fabric and lower the presser foot. Now take the spot with the next pin in your left hand and gently pull on the fabric until the cuff is the same length as the trouser material and no wrinkles are visible. Now align the edges flush with your right hand and continue sewing slowly while holding the tension with the same strength in your left hand. Sew until the pin is on the presser foot and remove it. Now proceed with the other "quarters" as well, until you are back at the beginning. Finally, sew over the buttocks seam and sew. In the photos, this seam is sewn with an overlock stitch, this does not need to be sewn.
If you want, you can now attach a size label or similar. Otherwise, simply fold the cuff upwards. With the small cuts, no further step is necessary. Follow the same instructions for leg cuffs and your first bloomers are ready!
Variant for toddlers
As promised I show here also a variant for larger sizes. The pattern is again selected according to your preferences. I drew my own (you can also find instructions on the Internet, but you can also trace and sew a well-fitting trousers). Again, put on, pinned and cut (in this case with cut paper).
Important: For the leg ends must be added 5 -7 cm (as desired), as is lined!
Tip: Since the front and back are very similar in this cut, you can mark the front sides, for example, with a "V" inserted with pins. This marking can be removed quickly and without residue as soon as it is no longer needed.
Here are a total of four cuts (2x front, 2x back), which can be cut in the fabric break, but with seam allowance and which are sewn together first and then back, then on the sides and finally between the legs together (ie in total 5 seams).
Here, when pinning the layers again started in the middle. In this case, you can simply put the front and rear seams on top of each other, with the seam allowances being placed in the opposite direction, so that not too many layers of fabric come to lie one above the other.
Tip: Jersey may cause the fabric edges to curl up. To counteract this, you can fix both fabric layers with a pin before the cut is applied.
Thus, these pants are basically finished and can be turned.
The abdominal cuff is made the same way as in the baby dummy. In the larger sizes, I sew like in the connection again from the outside on the seam allowance, so they do not get up and lying flat. This is especially necessary when the cuff is very low, such as T-shirts and cuffs.
The leg cut-outs are hemmed, with a lovingly so-called "lazy room". For this one works - depending on the request - 5 - 7cm of the fabric outwards (right to right - so the "beautiful" sides on each other) and immediately afterwards the edge back to the material break. These three layers are stuck and sewed with the usual seam allowance. Then you fold them down and sew again on the outside of the edged over the seam allowance.
And the sibling set is done!
1. Create or prepare a cut, provide cuff fabric
2. Crop with seam allowances
3. Sew the buttocks seam, sew the suture
4. Calculate cuffs and cut, create side seam
5. Attach markings to the cuffs and trouser openings in the quarter
6. Join fabrics and cuffs to the markings
7. Sew and sew round at the top
8. Fold up the cuffs, attach labels as required, if necessary attach decorative stitching
9. Attach leg cuffs in the same way
The twisted pirate