Home generalOleander has yellow, light or withered leaves - what helps?

Oleander has yellow, light or withered leaves - what helps?

  • First of all: a little bit of attention
  • Is nature to blame "> Nursing

Your oleander has yellow, light or withered leaves? In the article, you will find out why you definitely do not need to get gray hair in most cases.

The yellow, bright, withered leaves of the oleander are a constant theme of desperate inquiries, of course, one finally loves his plants and cares about them. The bright, yellow or withered leaves are quite common in Oleander and just as natural - in many cases with a little consideration and planned care off. And you also get to know the last resort for the (rare) absolute Oleander Supergau.

First of all: a little bit of attention

If an oleander shows yellow leaves, the fright is often great, but that should not be a reason for hectic action.

As you will soon learn, yellow leaves can have many causes, and if you start without thinking about something somewhere to change a little, you also get some result - without being able to later understand why it was actually lying, so without for the future to gain experience.

Therefore, first of all, think in peace, the oleander "go through bit by bit" and consider what it could be. The best way is to check the list and then decide which cause is the most likely one. If you B. were misinformed and the Oleander found his quarters in the dark corner or he accidentally got frost in the winter quarters, the matter is quickly clear, then it will be just brighter set up or aufgepäppelt and the topic yellow leaves should be done.

If there are several deficiencies you can start with the simplest, then your oleander is already on the way to recovery, while the rest is put in order.

Maybe you do not have to do anything.

Is nature to blame?

Year and German light poverty
The native of the Mediterranean oleander is evergreen, retains its leaves in his home so even in winter. Native deciduous trees discard their leaves as the days get shorter in the fall, so they do not have to feed them in the winter. That would be difficult, but we do not have enough daylight in winter, and when it's freezing, the roots can not pull water out of the ground.

This process is not set by a start switch in motion, but the trees decide on the available light. Native trees, which are close to a street lamp, hang much more leaves than the tree in the forest.

Your oleander is just as capable of "the leaf-throwing thing" as a native tree. If necessary, to maintain the supply at all, the leaves are thrown off, and before that they turn yellow. In winter it is darker (without artificial light) than in the Mediterranean, no matter how bright the winter quarters are for the oleander. So it can be perfectly normal for the oleander to part with a few extra leaves during the break, so that he does not have to take care of them during the winter.

Natural aging of oleander leaves

Standard tree

The discarded leaves will then usually be the same as some older leaves, because even in an evergreen grove the leaves do not live until all eternity. But depending on the type of plant for different lengths, with smaller trees such as the oleander two to four years, with an average of 1, 000 years old olive tree they can do a few more years.

But at some point they are thrown off, first the oldest leaves. First, the nutrients are withdrawn, when the leaf is no longer supplied, it first turns yellow, then it dries up and then it drops off.

Because the oldest leaves have naturally grown down on the shrub, natural leaf aging over the years leads to the balding of the oleander, as new leaves do not come down there anymore. You can not change this growth plan, you can stop the shedding by constant rejuvenation cuts, or you simply "redesign" your oleander retrospectively to the high stem. But the adoption of old leaves is a completely normal process for the oleander.

care defects

If a young oleander drops his leaves, age can be badly to blame. Then it will probably be care deficiencies, there are some possibilities:

Water: too little, too much
Nerium oleander is evergreen and likes to flower rich, he needs a lot of water. In his homeland in the Mediterranean and in the Orient, he often grows on streams and rivers, so its roots are so to speak, in the water. If an oleander gets too little water, the bottom leaves turn yellow again and finally fall off. The lack of water is not necessarily immediately noticeable, once the roots have dried up in between, the oleander sometimes reacts a little later with "spontaneous defoliation".

Remedy: Aufpäppeln again, in the future regularly enjoy with a little more water.

On the other hand, killing an oleander by waterlogging will be quite difficult. As I said, in the natural environment its roots are always half in the water, even a little in the coaster collected water consumes an oleander usually quite fast, in summer temperatures, he often even needs a small water supply in the coaster.

However, if you've set it cool and dark in the winter, but your roots still bathe in soaking wet soil all winter, then your oleander may look gray in the spring.

Remedy: Repot, repopulate, during the next overwintering in the same environment very rarely and pour little.

Too little light
Lack of light is always an issue for an oleander in Germany, not only in winter. The Mediterranean Sea is a bit closer to the equator than Germany, even when it's overcast, plants with free locations get lots of light:

Germany is located pretty high on the northern latitudes, the summer light is not comparable to the Mediterranean light. Windows also swallow, if the Oleander was not really housed in the brightest location, it may well be that he develops so yellow leaves at some point due to lack of light.

Remedy: In the living room in the brightest place, possibly plant light, in the summer best outside and the whole day in full sun light refueling.

Too little heat
Usually not a problem in our living rooms, but if you prefer to live cool and your oleander develops pale leaf colors (or just does not bloom or does not bloom), then this should also be checked. Some people set their air conditioning in the summer so cool that an oleander, which is used to a near-ground average annual temperature of just under 20 ° C, begins to shiver.

If the oleander is outside, it will be scarce with the heat anyway, he should be warm, in the sun, wind and rain protected. If it can get fresh with you, the Oleander should get in doubt a wall in the back, for nocturnal heat supply.

Nutrients: too little, too much
Nutrients are once in the ground, and already that can be chosen wrong. Commercially available potting soil does not like an oleander at all, rather mix potting soil with normal garden soil. Gladly a little clay may be mixed (there are in the hardware store as a powder), which looks much more similar to the soil at the natural site as the trading substrates.

Depending on how much garden soil you mix in and how nutrient-rich this garden soil is, the soil mixture must be added to long-term fertilizer, especially if the peat is not completely renewed. In the growing season, there are depending on size and vigor then about once or twice a week according to the manufacturer's recipe applied crops fertilizer.

The oleander can react with leaf-false colors, if the supply of nutrients is not right, we leave a photo gallery of the possible color nuances, because that does not really help. Discolored leaves can z. B. caused by prolonged undersupply / oversupply or by frost.

Rather, you can pay attention to whether the leaves fall off at some point or just hang in their funny colors, the latter was probably the nutrient supply in need of correction - which you can then adjust carefully until the new shoot looks lush green.

Too little water and nutrients gets an oleander, even if he can not feed properly by his roots, because the pot is just too small and completely overgrown by the roots.

Error in hibernation
Many yellow oleander leaves are reportedly lamented as a result of overwintering.

Oleander needs a bright, moderately cool or a darker, cool, but frost-free room during the hibernation. In the dark, only the residual moisture of the root must be preserved, and the oleander will always lose a few leaves. In the light, it must be further supplied in winter reduced.

Hibernation with frost


From Händlermund there are many rumors about how much frost an oleander can tolerate, and not always the tropical oleander lives up to these predictions. 5 to 6 ° C is the minimum for many oleanders.

Remedy: Quick as warm and bright as possible, care carefully, it may take a while for the oleander to recover.

If he is completely brown or bald after hibernation, you should probably grab the scissors right away. With soft and rotten Triebresten the Oleander probably has more trouble than from the bottom to restart. It remains to be seen whether a new budgie will come, but even long waiting times should be worthwhile.

If your oleander has pests, then it's the "usual" suspects: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, mealybugs. He can also get yellow leaves from this later.

Remedy: remove pests, if possible aufpäppeln outdoor, check the infestation site and make it as airy, next time to put in the shower.

The Supergau is a real plant disease. If your oleander looks something like this:

or something really bad in a similar way. This is usually a fungal disease, which is very expensive to treat.

You have two chances:
They embark on a comprehensive informational course to identify the disease and then find exactly the chemistry that helps with this disease,


They radically cut the oleander down to the smallest remnant, "make it completely nude", disinfect it with a plant-suitable agent and treat the stem with paraffin. Then comes the tense wait ...

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