Home generalSeam the seam properly: this is how to avoid fabric edges correctly

Seam the seam properly: this is how to avoid fabric edges correctly

  • Missing or overcasting
    • Basics
  • Versäuberungsarten
    • blind stitch
    • French seam
    • Overcasting
    • Festo Stich
  • Clean up with sewing machine
  • Versäumungsarten

In order to keep your sewing work for a long time even after the first wash, it is important in many cases to sew properly with a seam. It is also essential to miss out on many workpieces. I would like to address both today. When is missed and when a Versuberuberung announced, when I sew as Versuberuberung a hem and how do I do it correctly ">

In today's guide, you will learn when and how to use upholstery and seaming properly. As usual, I will also show everything with some photos. Do not worry, it's not nearly as complicated as it sounds!

Missing or overcasting

Miss with seam or sew on with seam

When is it important to nibble with a seam, when does the pinking scissors reach? If I sew over with a seam, which seam will I take? And then do I smear by hand or with the sewing machine? When should I miss then?


So let's start with the basics

You always have to miss seams whenever a fabric tends to fray. The quickest way to recognize this is to grasp the fabric on the edge with both hands and stretch it lengthwise. Depending on how much he fringes, you can then choose between different Versäuberungsvarianten.

The fabric does not fringe at all or almost does not froth:

You can simply sew the fabric with an open cut edge. For optical reasons, however, a sacking or even omission can be considered.

The fabric edges fringe a little:

Here it is recommended either to make the cut with the zigzag-scissors or to sew it right with seam.

The edges of the fabric are fringed:

You definitely have to sew it on with stitching here.

TIP: As you know, exceptions confirm the rule. Even a high-fraying material may not be serged. For example, when he is double-hemmed and hemmed in the hem. In this case, one speaks of a failure.

On the one hand, you can avoid seams wherever there is a seam (here, depending on the type of seam, the fabric edge is additionally serged), and on the other hand, where it should look particularly beautiful. In tailoring all seams should be beautiful, even if you can not see them from the outside. Whether this should also be the case for your home-sewn works, decide for yourself.


Which types of cleansing are there?

  • Scrub with zigzag scissors

For fabrics that are not fraying, you can cut directly with the zigzag shear. For non-fraying fabrics such as jersey and sweat, the zigzag cut is used less for technical reasons for overcasting. Here are mostly decorative purposes. Just as with sewing and crafting with felt, overcasting with zigzag scissors can be a great visual enhancement.

  • Versäuberung with hand seam

Sewing by hand with seams will not always be necessary and is also rather uncommon, as it means a huge amount of time. Nevertheless, I would like to express my clear recommendation for particularly sensitive fabrics! In addition, seams that should not be visible from the outside, also sewn by hand - with the blindstitch.

blind stitch

In the blindstitch, a wider stitch is placed on the side of the seam edge just below. Opposite the fabric, you take only one or two threads. It is important to ensure that the thread is not pulled too tight. He should just hold the hem above. Otherwise, the drawbars would be visible from the front. If the blind stitch is set correctly, you will not see it from the front.

French seam

In the case of sensitive fabrics, ideally, you will nibble the "French seam", which I have already described in detail in my article "Velvet and Silk" (//www.zhonyingli.com/samt-und-seide-naehen/).


A simple and quick way to nibble an edge by hand with a seam is the overcast stitch. This stitch is mainly used in places that are not easily accessible. Also for particularly sensitive fabrics. Here, the seam is serged by stitching through the fabric approximately every two millimeters from back to front. This results in an inclined seam, which holds the outer threads together. It is important that you do not stretch the thread too taut, otherwise the edge may curl up.

Festo Stich

This stitch is also known as a sling stitch and can be used for overcasting with particularly strong fraying substances. He also appeals as a decorative stitch. Here, the suture is serged by forming a loop at the front under the needle. The needle is stung from back to front through the fabric. When pulled through the loop then moves upward, thus securing the cut edge of the fabric.

Clean up with sewing machine

  • Versäuberung with sewing machine seam

With the sewing machine, you will always use the zigzag stitch as a seam. Here are different variants by setting the stitch width and the stitch length.

As a small summary you can use the following list:

  • fine fabrics: narrow width, long stitch
  • medium fringing fabrics: narrow width, medium stitch
  • strong fraying fabrics: large width, short stitch

The stitches are set so that the needle stings alternately in the fabric and next to the fabric. The used sewing thread should always match the thickness of the fabric. For particularly fine fabrics you should therefore also use very fine yarn.

  • Versüberung with the overlock seam

The overlock fulfills several steps in one go: It cuts the fabric edge straight again and thus removes protruding threads, serging the fabric edges of all inserted layers in one go and then sewing them together.

TIP: I like to reconnect overlock seams with a stretchable stitch on my sewing machine, as it has been shown that just tighter garments otherwise flash the seams.

  • Another type of cleaning with the sewing machine is missing.

TIP: It does not matter if you finish it by hand or with the machine: For new cuts, it is better to leave a wider seam allowance of at least one centimeter, and only sew over after the first sewing and the first fitting. If you want to reduce the fit and cut back the seam allowances, otherwise you will also have to cut off the serging and you will have to sew again.


Which Versäumungsarten are there ">

  • Failure by sewing (bias tape)

This type of cleansing can be used on all fabrics, also to set accents. The fabric edge to be sewed is sewn into a double-sided fabric strip, the so-called bias tape. This tape is available both as weave (low stretch) and knitwear (highly stretchable). A bias binding can also be easily made by yourself. How this works in detail, you can see my contribution //www.zhonyingli.com/schraegband-annaehen/.

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