Connecting the lamp - instructions for all lamp types

• Step 1 - Turn off the power
• Step 2 - Dismantling the old lamp
• Step 3 - Mounting the new lamp
• Step 4 - Turn on the power

To connect a new lamp in an apartment is a task that, although quite simple, is not trusted by many people. The reason is often the fear of being electrocuted. Most of the time one underestimates one's own handicraft skills, because this task is easy to do even for the layman. Beware, however, is appropriate because electricity is not a toy and much must be done in this regard by the electrician. However, smaller things can be done well with the appropriate knowledge and so even changing a lamp is not difficult.

Whether due to a move, for visual reasons or because the lamp is simply broken - at some point, everyone comes once to the point at which a lamp must be replaced. Often, however, at this point the electrician is called. But what if it's weekend "> Step 1 - Turn off power

First and foremost, the most important step in changing a lamp is first of all to de-energize the power line to which the lamp hangs. For this purpose, in the fuse box (main distribution, subdistribution), the fuse responsible for the area of ​​the lamp is switched off.

Depending on how old the house is, there may be two different types of backups. Either there are toggle switches in the fuse box or fuses. Fuses have to be unscrewed, with newer fuse boxes you just have to push the switch to turn the circuit off.

For safety, the fuse must be secured against restart! Simply stick a piece of adhesive or insulating tape and glue it over the switch.

This is somewhat problematic with fuses as there is no way to protect the fuse from being re-screwed. It is best to put the fuse aside and hang a warning sign in front of the fuse box.

IMPORTANT: Simply switching off the light switch is not enough to switch the lamp off!

Step 2 - Dismantling the old lamp

In the next step, the fasteners of the lamp will be removed. Depending on the type of lamp, a second person to hold the lamp is practical in this step, because now the lines must be separated from the lamp.

IMPORTANT: For safety reasons, a voltage tester (available from DIY stores or electrical retailers) is used to test whether there is still electricity flowing.

From the ceiling or wall usually stand out three colored cables, these are:

• Green-yellow or red cable (PE):
  • this is the protective conductor of the lamp.
  • he is the safety cable against electric shocks.
• Blue or gray cable (N):
  • the neutral conductor,
  • contributes to the distribution of electrical energy and grounding
• Black or brown cable (L):
  • the outer conductor, also called phase
  • serves for transmission and distribution of electrical energy.

All three cables hang on a so-called luster terminal, this is the intermediate piece between the cables of the lamp and the wires from the house circuit.

In total there are six small screws, of which first the black (or brown), then the blue (or gray) and finally the green-yellow cable is removed. The screws on the lamp side are loosened so that the luster terminal remains on the cables of the house circuit.

Step 3 - Mounting the new lamp

Rarely does the attachment of the new lamp match the mounting of the old lamp. Now you have to do the necessary drilling work to fix the lamp. A metal detector should be used. By default, power cables should be routed in a straight line to the wall with the light switch. Slanted cable routing is prohibited in electricians, but unfortunately not everyone adheres to this rule and so it may occur during drilling that the cable is damaged. A complex repair would be the result. For this reason, a metal detector is necessary to determine the position of the line.

If the fastenings are set, it may go to the mounting of the lamp. First, the protective conductor (green-yellow) is always connected to the lamp. Next, the neutral conductor (blue-gray), at the end of the outer conductor (black-brown).

If the cables are connected, the lamp can now be carefully mounted. It should be noted that the power lines are not damaged by screws or the housing of the lamp. Then the lamps can be screwed into the sockets.

IMPORTANT: Especially in old buildings, it may happen that instead of three cables only two cables protrude from the wall, the outer conductor and the neutral conductor. If this is the case, the protective conductor and the neutral conductor on the lamp side are fastened together in one slot of the luster terminal.

Step 4 - Turn on the power

In the last step, switch the fuse back on and remove the fuse to prevent it from being switched on again.

Tips for quick readers

• Remove fuse
• Secure fuse against restart
• Release the lamp
• Check again for voltage free with a voltage tester
• Green-money cable is the protective conductor (PE)
• Blue or gray cable is the neutral conductor (N)
• Black or brown cable is the outer conductor (phase) (L)
• Loosen the screws on the luster clamps on the side of the lamp
• locate power line with metal detector so as not to drill into the line
• Attach the lamp mounting
• Connect protective conductor, then neutral conductor, at the end outer conductor
• Replace the lamp without damaging the cable
• Screw the bulb into the socket
• Remove fuse against restart
• Switch on the fuse again