Plasterboard - glue or screw
- Condition of the wall
- Glue plasterboard together
- 1. Prepare the wall
- 2. Cut panels
- 3. Mix the glue
- 4. Glue plasterboard
- Screw on plasterboards
- Screw on substructure
- Insert insulation
- Attach plates
You want to dress up an unsightly wall with plasterboard and you're not sure if you stick it to the wall or screw it better. At first glance, gluing a plasterboard seems to be very easy, but usually when you start to work, the first questions often arise. Here we show you how plasterboard is glued on. At the same time, we show popular sources of error that need to be circumvented and contrast the screwing of plasterboard with the gluing.
Plasterboard can be screwed as well as glued. Hardly any other material makes it possible to create a smooth wall, such as plasterboard, so quickly and cheaply. That's one of the reasons why plasterboard is so popular today.
These questions should be asked:
- Wet room "> Condition of the wall
To decide whether to glue the plasterboard or screw it down, you should take a closer look at the condition and position of the wall.
In addition to moisture, a porous wall is also the reason for gluing plasterboard. If the wall is crooked or uneven, the plate will not adhere to its entire surface and may later fall off. The same result can be expected with a porous wall. Here, the adhesive can not completely connect to the wall and so does not stick to the entire surface. Thus, the adhesive can not hold the weight of the plasterboard in the long run and eventually gives way.
Tip: Depending on the surface, you can additionally secure the newly created walls made of plasterboard with screws. It is not always necessary to install a rail under the plate so that you can set screws. However, you should use special screws, which are provided with a knock-in dowel.
Cracks that are well over a millimeter thick and / or cover the entire wall also indicate damage to the structure of the wall. These cracks must be closed at least beforehand. You can use the same mass that you use to glue the plasterboard. Whether binder or tile adhesive, you only need to roughly fill in the cracks and allow to dry.
If the plasterboard is glued to the wall, you have no way to bring in additional insulation under it. Therefore, all uninsulated exterior walls are unsuitable for gluing plasterboard. Only if at the same time a pre-wall insulation is performed, for example, with a thermal composite system, it makes sense to stick to a previously uninsulated outer wall from the inside Rigips. If the wall is no longer to be worked on from the outside, the installation of plasterboard on a subframe of slats or aluminum rails is necessary. Then both the sufficient insulation and a vapor barrier can be installed under the plates. Even with a partition, you must not renounce the insulation, even if this may not seem necessary at the moment.
Talk against sticking:
- Moisture in the wall
- crooked or uneven wall
- porous surface of the wall
- Insulation of the wall required
Especially in small rooms, it makes sense to glue the plates directly, as a substructure consumes additional living space. Of course, the question does not arise if you want to use the plasterboards to cover a dividing or partition wall that is being rebuilt. But even then you have one more decision to make. You can build the substructure either from aluminum profiles or slats. Depending on which material you prefer to work with, this is more of a matter of taste, as both materials have their advantages and disadvantages.
Tip: For gluing large plates are rather impractical, because the so-called one - man plates are better.
Glue plasterboard together
Rigips on a brick or plaster wall can actually be glued and reworked in just 4 steps. Although this is the easiest way to lay plasterboard, it can not be used anywhere.
First, the instructions to stick the plasterboard. Cheaper than mounting with screws on a substructure gluing is not mandatory, because it is quite a lot of adhesive needed.
1. Prepare the wall
First check that the wall is absolutely straight and even. Sandy surfaces should additionally be washed off before you can glue plasterboard there. If cracks are present, they must first be closed.
Tip: You do not have to straighten a particularly uneven wall until you want to glue the boards. However, this is often not worth it and it is then easier to screw the plates on a compensating substructure.
Make sure that any existing plaster is really sound. In most old houses in need of renovation, it is better to remove the old plaster before. Highly absorbent and porous bricks should also be prepared with a primer before gluing.
Tip: If the wall is too uneven or not stable, it is better to dowel a substructure on the wall, because you can not completely compensate for a crooked wall when gluing.
2. Cut panels
Cut the plates before mixing the mortar. Even if the plates may have to be reworked with a cutter, you should prepare all plates. Where cut edges meet, you should bevel the edge. Around doors and windows you may still need an edge protection made of aluminum or plastic. The strips should also be prepared.
When cutting the panels, note the front and back. The rounded edges belong to the front. For some plates, both sides are rounded, then you should pay attention to the color of the surface, since the back is usually kept beige in cardboard color, the front is white primed.
Draw the required area exactly with the pencil on the plate. Attach a stopper iron or straight board to the cutting edge and pull the cutter or a utility knife along it. Place the board under the plasterboard at the cutting edge and break it through here. Now you can cut the cardboard of the back with the cutter.
Tip: As the edge is no longer rounded on the front, where you have cut, you should chamfer the edge with a pull iron or the cutter. If the sharp right-angled edge remains, it will force itself later and destroy its smooth surface. You can connect the plates only cleanly and above all invisible if the plate is rounded.
3. Mix the glue
When mixing the glue, you have to prove some instinct. If the glue gets too wet, the gypsum board absorbs the moisture and the cardboard coating can swell and loosen. If the glue is too dry, it will not properly connect the plate and the wall. The consistency should be creamy, but not dripping.
First put the cold water in the clean mason jug and then the gypsum powder of the piecing binder. Gradually pour the gypsum powder slowly. If you notice that you have too little water, you should wait a moment and then stir the mass again with the agitator. It is always unfavorable for Ansetzbinder if later water is poured. It is better if you can admit some tie-down.
Tip: The tile adhesive is just touched, but is not as sensitive as the Ansetzbinder. Tile adhesive is particularly suitable for exterior walls because of its mortar-containing s better than a product based on gypsum. When gluing the green damp-proof panels, you should rather use tile adhesive.
4. Glue plasterboard
You can either glue with piecing or with mortar plasterboard. You should make the selection depending on the number of square meters. For large areas, it is often easier and more economical to mix mortar for the boards themselves. Tying Ties is a ready-to-use plaster mix specially developed for gluing plasterboard.
Compare the prices, especially if you need a lot of bags of tie-downs. A sack of 20 kilos costs about 8.00 euros in the hardware store. With pallet acceptance it becomes partly cheaper. But a pallet may well include 56 sacks. Other dealers offer for example 48 bags for 400 euros. So you should look carefully even with larger quantities, whether the major purchase is not even expensive. Because in our example, the bag then costs 8.33 euros, so it is even more expensive.
For large complete panels, you should clap the adhesive in several blobs or large blobs, on the wall. For a one-man plate, it should be about six thick blobs. The plate should be pressed for a moment. Large plates stick better with a second person as an aid. But you can handle the smaller one-man plates alone.
Tip: The clapping of the adhesive mass on the wall is quite literally meant, because the more momentum you exert, the fewer air holes remain behind the adhesive on the wall. So first the mass and then the plate sticks much better.
Smaller pieces on the edge or in the corners should be provided on the back with at least three small blobs of glue and then press firmly. Immediately after pressing the plates with a spirit level, always check that the plates are absolutely straight. Only now can you adjust the plates with light strokes. Always hit the plate with the palm of your hand to make slight corrections.
Important: Use the spirit level to check if the plate has just been pressed.
When attaching the panels you should be careful not to create cross joints.
Screw on plasterboards
The advantage of a substructure for the plasterboard is primarily in the good insulation and the ability to install a vapor barrier on the masonry. An additional facade renovation is usually not necessary in this case. However, the space shrinks on all sides by about five inches, which is of course not desirable in very small rooms.
Screw on substructure
Depending on the plate size you use, your backbone must be designed so that the plates can be screwed on all sides. Large plates should also be screwed in the middle. The slats or aluminum rails are screwed directly onto the wall with dowels and screws. If you want to introduce a vapor barrier, you should pay attention to the sealing of the dowel holes.
Your insulation layer should match the thickness of the battens. If the insulation chosen is too thin, part of the insulating effect evaporates. Excessive insulation is of course completely impossible with Rigips, otherwise you will not be able to screw the plates.
The insulation must be cut exactly. That is, it should only be a few millimeters wider and higher than the existing segment. If you cut out too small a piece, you can either use it in another box or lay it precisely with another strip. Of course this is not ideal and should not be the norm. The insulation should be pressed into the field with two or three targeted hand strokes, then you have the right size.
Make sure that the plate ends in the middle of each bar, if there is still a neighboring plate. In places where the panel is to cover a window or door frame, you can attach an edge profile for plasterboard for protection. Covered later, however, a door frame the edge, you can save on these costs.
Tip: The screws today usually have a Phillips head. Be sure to buy a high quality bit that fits perfectly to the head of the screw. You save a lot of time and effort when screwing, and you also have less cost due to ruined screw heads that spin.
You should lower the screw sufficiently deep. About one to two millimeters deep, the screw should be sunk. So you can later fill in well and the screw still provides the plate with enough grip. Your best friend is laying a plasterboard on the ceiling or a slant, the so-called 3rd hand, with which you fix the plate in the right place. With this cheap little tool, you often do not even need a helper.
Tip: If possible, lower the screwdriver speed so that the screw receives exactly the right contact pressure. At full power, it can happen that the screw shoots right through the plasterboard. Of course, then the record would not have a hold later.
Wherever lamps are to be mounted on the ceiling or slope, a strong board connecting the construction slats is important. The electrical cable is also routed along this board. Make a note of the location of the power cables and any auxiliary boards that have been inserted. You will then always have the option of adding a luminaire or replacing the existing luminaires, for example if the use of the room changes from the bedroom or nursery to a study.
Regardless of whether you have glued or screwed the plasterboard, the drywall must now be grouted and sanded to get a really smooth surface for further use. The instructions can be found here: fill plasterboard and sand.