Cleaning the ceramic hob - Tips against scratches / stains
- Remove scratches and burned-in
- Difficult special cases
- Prevention is the best cleaning
- Hopeless cases
- Beware of these tips
There are many means / methods to clean a ceramic hob and many anti scratch / burn tips on the ceramic hob. Below you will find out which tips work which can damage the ceramic hob and how you can protect your ceramic hob from scratches / burn-in in the future.
One of the reasons why ceramic hobs are so popular is that their smooth surface is quick and easy to clean - which is just right until something overflows and burns in or the first scratches "decorate" the hob. On the other hand, you can succeed in doing something; but not by trying out any tips, but because you know what the material reacts to, and you'll find out in the article:
Remove scratches and burned-in
The worst thing that can happen to your ceramic hob: food leftovers burnt to hard layers and inexplicable scratches that may go back to an unsuccessful cleaning attempt.
There are methods that you can use to combat both "disfigurements" of the Ceran field, even several to choose from:$config[ads_text2] not found
Baking soda consists of edible soda (sodium bicarbonate) and acid (from E 333 citric acid to E 450a disodium diphosphate) and thus combines means Nos. 7 and 10, see there.
Ceran field scraper, a kind of razor, in which the holder for the blade is designed in such a way that, when used correctly, it never scrapes directly on the glass surface. The Ceranfeldschaber can scrape persistent incrustations, if necessary, layer by layer, after this has become a little soft by previous soaking. The last remnants on the glass should then only be soaked in water and wiped off with a soft cloth.
Soaking is the royal route to the removal of foreign substances, eg. B. with a few layers of well-moistened kitchen crepe. By wiping away most of the dirt after soaking, the rest will create a damp cloth. If cleaner, then only neutral cleaner (which is so because of its neutral pH) - acidic or alkaline cleaners can also brush off a little of the glass, but only micro quantities, but at least.
Fine steel wool of thickness "00" eliminates residual traces and can even polish off fine scratches on the hob.
Glass cleaner should have a neutral pH and can be used to clean the ceramic hob, as it consists of glass ceramic.
Salt has a pH of 7, as an inorganic substance a certain germicidal effect and scrubs mild. Can you give to the ceramic hob, even in solution (but then brings not much more than pure water).
Soda can be a lot, z. B. enter a chemical reaction with black-burnt food residues, which dissolves them from the bottom of the pot. But forms a pH of 11.5 mixed with water and a very slightly caustic lye. As glass swells up with water and reacts sensitively both to acids and alkalis (as explained in more detail below), you can use caustic soda to create and remove burnt-in substances by soaking. The glass surface itself should, however, come as little as possible with the soda solution in contact (put on soaked cloths) and when removing the charred food-soda mixture best only "gently caressed", if need be rather layer by layer soak and erode.
Special cleaner for ceramic fields usually contains glycerine, other alcohols and fatty alcohols as a lubricant and usually a little bit of citric acid (read the s, in special cleaners can also be processed substances that do not do your ceran field really good). You can use it, but you can also use water with neutral detergent or mix yourself a Ceranfeld special cleaner with glycerine from the pharmacy. You pay so much less than 50, - € per liter for a "PROFI-Ceranfeldreiniger", and glycerin is a little impregnate against new pollution. However, it is also easier to achieve this impregnation yourself by rubbing your ceramic hob with petroleum jelly or baby oil.
Toothbrush, old and hard, is suitable for cleaning all kinds of cracks and is certainly also a good tool for cleaning grooved ceramic fields. But the toothbrush could be too hard again for the sealing edges of the ceramic hob.
Lemon provides fresh fragrance and kills germs, but it does so because its pH of 2.4 is almost as acidic as hydrochloric acid (pH 0, the neutral range is around 7). You can freshen the ceramic hob briefly with a splash of lemon juice in the cleaner, but then again with a cloth and clear water over it, so that the glass is no longer exposed to the acid.
Difficult special cases
With the means mentioned you will certainly get everything down from a ceramic hob, which has not chemically combined with the glass-ceramic surface. Since glass ceramic has a high chemical resistance, this is almost everything that comes into contact with the hotplate. However, sometimes you need a lot of patience and perseverance, and maybe a multiple strategy.
The solid burned from soaking, removing dirt, soak, remove dirt, etc., with increasingly fine cleaning tools and until the last layer is removed.
Very close to the absolute maximum penalty is the plastic container, which has melted on the hot stove.
To detach it:
- Attempt: Using a non-sharp-edged surface tool (spatula, pie tray, pizza server), lift off the enamel as a whole
- Attempt: Heat the stove plate briefly at the lowest level and repeat experiment 1
- Experiment: Ceran scraper, depending on the plastic, applied to the cold or, with slight heating, supple mass
When the coarse is gone, coarse and fine steel wool and scouring powder is used. In each case short and only with low pressure when water is involved - so that only the plastic remains and not the glass are processed as far as possible.
If you want to remove scratches, you would have to edit the glass yourself. Fill the surface is not possible, remove surface only in the micrometer range - deep scratches remain.
Prevention is the best cleaning
Whether you have endless soaks or scrape scrapings behind you or your ceramic hob had already been replaced because of deep scratches / blind spots / color changes - if you've gone through something like that, you certainly never want to see baked dirt on a ceramic hob. That is possible and actually very simple:
It is best to remove any dirt on the stove immediately.
Depending on what has landed from the pot on the ceramic hob and how hot the hob was currently operated, slightly different strategies are recommended:$config[ads_text2] not found
- Moderately hot plate, rather uncritical liquid overflowed
If something is not very sticky like vegetable broth sloshed on the ceramic hob, which has just been warmed up on a not very hot plate, you can dare: liquid first with a thick Bausch kitchen paper (careful not to burn the hand) soak, then with an under After soaking in cold water soaked cotton cloth and then remove the remains with a wet, cold, repeatedly folded cotton cloth.
Cotton has an ignition temperature of 450 ° C, which means it only ignites when in contact with a 450 ° C hot surface.
- Hot plate, uncritical fluid
If foods like the above are overcooked because you wanted to heat them up at maximum temperature, your first reaction should be to turn off the stove. Leave pans resting over the entire area with good adhesion, in the other (tolerably warm) perimeter of the pot with thick hands full of kitchen paper ( if need be, the other absorbent paper from the roll, of which you certainly have a few rolls of stock in the house) Aspirate and remove liquid with s as much as possible. Then put a thick wreath of paper (roll it a couple of times 2 - 3 meters and twist like a spiral) around the pot at a safe distance, put a second wreath of lightly curled kitchen towels around it - and pour a little water around the pot so that the whole thing soaks on cooling. Once the ceramic hob has cooled, clean with plenty of liquid and a soft cloth.
- Hot plate, critical fluid
If sugar solution, heavy-duty sauces, milk, cheese cream or other "rich in " food boils over to evil hard layers, you can basically proceed as described under 2. above.
However, if a lot of very solid food has found its way out of the pot to the ceramic field, you can only continue with very soft paper. It would be better if there was a kind of shovel or big spoon in your kitchen, with a non-thermally conductive handle, with which you collect a large part of the food before you go to the paper processing. What is well, you should consider once in peace, in the current (dis) case you fall in the panic in doubt not necessarily the right one. The luxury version
can order it on the internet and could free you from any trouble with your ceramic hob: The heat resistant stove flap, with which you can wipe away overflowed immediately and clean the hot plate safely. Heat-resistant special fabric, absorbent cotton lining and steam-impermeable silicone are combined in five layers:
By linking several circumstances, it is possible to cause irreversible damage to a ceramic field due to external influences. Not easy with the material glass ceramic. But for decades, we've been fooled by willing-to-sell companies that cleaning takes (much) more ingredients than warm water, soaking, and mild soap. Since then, cleaning has become a problem, and more recently, another market has been "created" by the trade: remedies for "poor household hygiene" (in which one lives healthier with a few bacteria than in the toxic exhalations of exaggerated cleaning). The more conscientious the conditioned consumer is, the more resolute he is against allegedly dangerous filth in your environment, with many potentially negative consequences (against which the retailer has nothing to go on, must be bought new).
This wildly determined consumer can also miss a ceramic hob permanent scratches. For example, by scratching with the Ceranfeldschaber perpendicular to the (possibly already swollen by soaking) plate or maltreated the surface with the sharp corner, even sharp blades, etc., offer good opportunities.
The material can also undergo permanent changes due to overheating, but only from about 600 ° C (depending on the composition of the glass ceramic). Every cooker "from year of construction 1910" is usually switched off by the overheating protection at 190 ° C. But it can be connected incorrectly, the thermostat can fail, the cooling fan too, etc., and then all you have to do is forget a pot and the temperature rises to nirvana ... usually the color changes from clear to opaque (crystallization ) or shimmering from neutral to colored (overheated pot contributed a few molecules or cleaning with sharp remedies makes the surface iridescent faster in rainbow colors than known from ancient Roman glasses that corroded in the earth for centuries).
In these cases, you will succeed with no hint of this world, because the material from which the hob is made ( glass ceramic ), permanently changed in its structure or volume.
Fiery herds guard connection by electrician and purchase of quality goods. You can protect yourself more easily against shrinkage, "staining", scratches in glass ceramic, you only need to avoid all cleaning / cleaning tools that can clog glass surfaces:
Beware of these tips
There are many tips for cleaning ceramic hobs and, as always, there are some that you should not do to your stove: The surface of the ceramic hob is made of glass ceramic, a composite material made of glass and crystals. It is formed from molten glass, in which the crystallization (devitrification) carefully avoided during glass production is permitted to a certain extent (controlled crystallization of the ceramic fraction).
Glass is chemically quite resistant (inert, hardly reacts with other substances), glass ceramic is in most versions a little more resistant. But even glass surfaces are not completely unaffected by the substances that are brought to them from the "rest of the world".$config[ads_text2] not found
Even though this is quite surprising for a material that is one of the most common in our kitchens: Simple water causes glass surfaces to swell, the outermost layer becomes mechanically and chemically quite sensitive (which is why cheap glass even without aggressive tabs after several rinses in the dishwasher cloudy would be, the mechanical abrasion is already enough).
The softened outer layer reacts with everything possible. For example, with acidic solutions, in the glass vase cleaned with lemon cleaner, the micro-erosion only appears after a long time, on the toilet bowl cleaned with hydrochloric acid, the glaze can be attacked very soon, because it is actually attacked by the acid. Even strong bases (strong alkaline solutions in pipe cleaners or alkaline toilet deodorants) easily attack the glazes of the bathtub / toilet bowl, and chemistry bomb tabs á la "9 in 1" create any glass in the long term.
By the way, all this does not speak against glass and ceramic glass in the kitchen, most other materials react with many other substances, often much faster. The small excursion into the chemistry of glass and glass ceramics only makes it very clear that a tiny cleaning cabinet is best not only for the residents, but also for the household. The following s of this cleaning cabinet should not come into contact with your ceramic hob better:
- oven cleaner
better not to be sprayed on the hob and especially not on the glass. Baking oven sprays contain chemicals such as 2-aminoethanol = monoethanolamine and 1-ethylpyrrolidin-2-one, which react alkaline to strongly alkaline and thus dissolve your cooking plate slightly less or slightly more.
- steam cleaners
allow the temperature of the steam to cause glass to swell well without any detergent; if you treat the cracks with a small attachment nozzle (as Mutti recommends), you will break the seals as well. If the gasket leaks due to "steam cooking", choking, cutting, it can be really dangerous, from short circuit to leakage in the stove under the ceramic hob.
- wire brush
should help against scratches; if you go with a jigsaw on your hob (not quite serious comment of a forum participants to tip with the wire brush), even very thick scratches disappear ... but gentle cleaning for glass ceramic is not and should be better avoided.
See above (wire brush), for the tip to get the knife under the edges of the glass ceramic panel, see 2.
Can clean and even slightly seal when adjusted to neutral pH as usual and contains fatty alcohols as a lubricant. Contains but mostly quartz sand as abrasive substance and main ingredient (which is elsewhere much cheaper) and can also theoretically contain as unspecified product everything that was in the chemical cabinet of the manufacturer just left, application to ceramic hobs can only after information about the ingredients recommended.
- razor blade
Could make sense on the ceramic hob in a razor that keeps the razor blade away from the glass surface itself. For this purpose, however, invented on the hot plate Ceranfeldschaber invented that costs no more than a plastic razor. You can still reserve the shaver for beard and leg hair, otherwise see 3.
Should be stirred with warm water to the cleaning paste, clean the ceramic hob. It may be, but even the normal standard tab contains sodium percarbonate (a highly corrosive bleach) and has a total pH of 10 to 11 according to the safety data sheet, which is basic enough for long-term surface damage.
- Toothpick and Co.
have against all the hot tips under the seal at the edges of the plate to seek anything because even the adhesive under the seal such cleaning power does not withstand.
Contains abrasive objects such as silicate compounds, whiting or marble powder that could help with polishing; but also a whole range of other substances that the human body (almost always) tolerates, but their pH levels could clog glass during prolonged soaking.