Boomerang heel and reinforced heels knit stockings
- The boomerang heel
- Knitting boomerang heel
- Second part of the boomerang heel
- Reinforced heel with coping
- Instructions for the reinforced heel
- heel cap
There are several methods that knit on the stocking sock heel. Which way you choose depends on your foot shape and your personal preferences.
The knitting method of the two heels, which we present here, differs considerably in some respects: In the case of the boomerang heel, the outer stitches are taken out of service and then taken up again. With the reinforced heel, knit the heel wall in a pretty pattern that makes the heel more robust at the same time. Following this, the coping is worked on this heel, in which the decreases are knitted starting from the middle.
The material needed for both heels:
- A stocking with heel finished to the heel.
- Which sock wool size you used is irrelevant. In this manual, we do not use exact mesh numbers, so you can tailor the heels perfectly to your piece of knitting.
- If you need exact dimensions and data, use our sock chart :
zhonyingli.com - Sock table
The boomerang heel
This heel resembles the heel of machine-knit socks and has a very good fit. It is knit with shortened rows and is slightly shorter in shape than other heel variants.
Often this heel is also called a yo-yo heel. Both the boomerang and the jojo are items that return to their owners time and time again. This heel is similar, because while knitting, the stitches gradually "return" to the needle.
Tip: You can also reinforce this heel by knitting a special, color-matched Beilaufgarn. For the heel, use the same needle size as for the rest of the socks, despite the attached cuff. As a result, the fabric is beautiful and extremely durable.
Knitting boomerang heel
This heel is knitted in rows over the stitches of the 4th and 1st needle (needle with the stop thread). Unlike other heel styles, the heel sts are on 2 needles.
Since the finished knit heel is shorter than other heels knit, as soon as the shaft has reached the desired length, first 1 to 2 inches in the shaft pattern on the 2nd and 3rd needle. The stitches of the 1st and 4th needle are worked smoothly to the right. Then you start with the shortened rows or the decommissioning of the outer stitches. The stitches on the 2nd and 3rd needle rest while you work the heel.
1st row: Knit all stitches of the 4th and 1st right needle. The last stitch is worked as a wrapping stitch: Put the thread in front of the needle, lift the stitch as if to knit on the left
and apply the work. Knit the stitch as if to the left, so that the thread is wrapped around the stitch.
2nd row: The wrapping stitch is lifted off and is not knitted. Knit left over the remaining stitches of both needles while the last stitch works as a wrapping stitch: Put the thread in front of the needle, lift off to the left, knit work, leave the thread in front of the needle and lift off the stitch.
3rd row: The wrapping stitch is off, knit the following stitches on the right. In this series, the penultimate stitch is worked as a wrapping stitch.
4th row: Knit on the left, work the last but last stitch as a wrap stitch.
Tip: With dark yarns it can be difficult to detect the wrapping mesh after the work has been removed. Work the wrapping stitch and after a few stitches, insert a safety pin or an open stitch marker into the thread wrapped around the stitch. So you can see exactly how far you have to knit.
Continue working in this way until only one third of the total number of stitches of needles 1 and 4 is in the middle. If the mesh size can not be divided by 3, the middle part remains slightly wider.
Example: Needles 1 and 4 have a total of 32 stitches. 10 stitches are closed on the left and right, 12 stitches remain in the middle.
Tip: In this picture you can see that the heel runs diagonally upwards through the disused stitches. To illustrate the technique, we distributed the stitches on three playing needles. The start of the round is still the upper middle.
For the sock to sit well, knit two rows of smooth right over all needles. In the first round both knit stitches of the shadow stitches are knitted together on the right side.
Lift off the wrapping mesh with the right needle. Use the left needle to prick the wrap and pick it up.
Slip the stitch back on the left needle.
Knitt both right sides together. For the third needle, lift the wrapping stitch directly onto the left needle and knit both stitches together.
Tip: If you have the feeling that the winding stitches are becoming too loose, you can knit the winding stitch and the right stitched loop on the right side as well. This little trick is hardly noticeable in the finished stocking.
Tip: In order to avoid a hole at the transitions between the 1st and 2nd needle and between the 3rd and 4th needle, you can pick up 1 stitch from the cross thread in the first intermediate round and remove this additional stitch in the 2nd round.
The first half of the heel is done.
Now it goes back in the boomerang, that is, all disused stitches are gradually added back.
Second part of the boomerang heel
The beginning of the row is again the point with the stop thread.
1st row: Knitt all the stitches that have not been wrapped right. Put the thread in front of the next stitch (1st wrapping stitch). Work turn.
2nd row: The first stitch is a wrapping stitch, knit all other stitches left to the last unwrapped stitch. Put the thread in front of the needle, turn it over.
3rd row: The first stitch is the wrapping stitch. Knit off all the stitches in this row to the wrapped loop at the end of the row to the right. Knitting mesh, the next stitch is again worked as a winding mesh.
4th row: The first stitch is a wrapping stitch, knit all other stitches left to the loop at the end of the row, knit the loop on the left, work a wrapping stitch, turn over.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows continuously until all side stitches are integrated back into the fabric.
Tip: Also on the left side, you can stitch together the wrapping stitches to avoid holes.
Note: No heel is worked on this heel. For people with a very high instep, this heel is sometimes a bit tight. Here is the coping heel described below or the Herzchenferse described in the Sockenanleitung for beginners.
Reinforced heel with coping
The reinforced heel with cap should be the most common sock heel. It is characterized by its durability and good fit.
Instructions for the reinforced heel
Knitting the last round of sheep only up to the third needle, with the 4th and 1 Needle is then worked the reinforced heel wall. First immobilize the stitches of the 2nd and 3rd needle on a single needle. If necessary, secure the stitches with mesh stoppers before slipping off.
Tip: If you do not have mesh stoppers on hand, you can cut a discarded cork and stick it on the tips of the needles.
The first and last stitch in each row is knitted on the right, no edge stitches work! This will make the border nice and you can easily pick up the stitches for the foot later.
1st row: knit 2 stitches on the right, 1 stitch as if knitting to the right (thread behind the needle), 1 stitch on the right, repeat continuously, 2 stitches on the right.
2nd row: 2 stitches on the right, knit all stitches on the left side, 2 stitches on the right.
Repeat these two rows continuously. The two knitted stitches on the right create a small rib pattern on the edge, which makes counting the rows easier. The reinforced pattern forms light longitudinal ribs.
In the reinforced pattern, knit two rows less than the heel stitch on the needle.
The coping is knit smooth right, so it does not press under the foot and fits snugly.
Distribute the heel sts evenly on three needles. If the number of stitches does not go up, the excess stitches are assigned to the middle needle. Our sample sock was knitted with 16 stitches per needle, resulting in 32 heel stitches. Distribution for the cap: 10 stitches left and right, 12 stitches in the middle.
1st row: Knit the stitches of the 1st and 2nd needle to the last stitch of the 2nd needle on the right side. Take off the last stitch of the second needle as for the right knit, knit the 1st stitch of the 3rd needle on the right, cover off the stitched stitch. Turn to work.
2nd row: Take off the first stitch on the left. Knit the stitches of the 2nd needle to the last stitch on the left. Knitt the last stitch of the 2nd needle with the 1st stitch of the 3rd needle left. Turn to work.
3rd row: Take off the first stitch on the right and knit the stitches of the 2nd needle to the last stitch on the right. Take the last stitch as if to knit right, knit the 1st stitch of the third needle to the right and cover the lifted stitch. Turn to work.
Tip: Again, you can work the meshes crossed, so that no holes.
Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows continuously until all stitches are used up.
Tip: This cap looks much narrower than the heel. Do not let that irritate you, this is absolutely right. Due to the elastic knit, the finished sock fits perfectly to the foot shape.
Spread the remaining heel sts on 2 needles. Beginning of row is again the needle with the stop thread. Take now from the edge of the reinforced heel of each Knötchenrandmasche (= 2 knitted rows) on a stitch and additionally a stitch crossed right from the transverse thread between the 1st and 2nd needle. Redistribute the topstitched stitches of the foot top onto two needles and knit them to the right or in the pattern you want. Knit 1 stitch out of the cross thread between the 3rd and 4th needle again. Pick up a stitch from each edge of the heel of the heel and knit the remaining heel sts on this needle.
There are more stitches on the 4th and 1st needle than on the 2nd and 3rd needle. These are removed again in the spade until the original number of stitches is on all 4 needles.
Now you know how to knit a reinforced and a boomerang heel. Have fun trying!
Tips for quick readers:
- The boomerang heel resembles a machine-knit heel.
- It is shorter than other heels, but it fits very well.
- By entangled knitting the winding stitches are avoided unsightly holes.
- The reinforced heel is extremely robust as the yarn is double over every other stitch.
- The heel cap looks narrow, but adapts well to the shape of the foot.