Soil balance - Information on prices and processing

• Material and preparation
  • Underground and ground leveling
  • Cost / Prices / Craftsman "> Why ground leveling compound?
• Instructions - Use ground leveling compound
• Tips for quick readers

One of the popular panaceas for home improvement is the ground leveling compound. Whether you want to seal holes in the screed, or you want to level out uneven floors for laying tiles, the floor leveling compound is easy to apply and does not cost too much, depending on the product. We will show you the actual costs of the different products and how to handle the ground leveling compound.

A leaked old staircase, a solid ground or just the said holes in the floor area - leveling compound can even provide on wood or old tiles for a new load-bearing surface. If you prefer to lay a PVC floor or even a carpet on old tiles, the leveling compound for the floor is the perfect solution. Joints, holes and bumps disappear under the new coating and you get a perfect surface. Even after a subsequent installation of underfloor heating, the floor can be safely closed again with the floor leveling compound. The instructions for the processing of balancing weights can be found here as well as the prices of the products.

Material and preparation

You need this:

• spirit level
• screed bar
• Maurer bucket
• Painters Quast
• Malerrolle
• squeegee
• Glättschwert
• Spiked scraper / coarse street broom
• bucket
• Agitator electric
• trowel
• notched trowel
• caulking gun
• Leveling floors
• primer
• sand
• Edge insulation strips
• silicone

Underground and ground leveling

Depending on which background you need the leveling compound, you should check at the time of purchase whether the selected product covers this area. This is especially necessary for wooden floors or surfaces in the outdoor area, because stone, concrete or tiled floors in the interior can actually be covered by any leveling compound. Only for an organic surface like wood you should use a special mass.

• stone floor
• Tile / ceramic floor
• concrete
• cement
• leveling screed
• wood floor

Tip: Pay attention to the term "plastic-coated". These balancing weights contain small amounts of plastic, which ensure that the mass flexibly adapts to the given conditions and runs evenly.

Costs / prices / craftsmen ">

Tip: Especially for the interior it does not have to be the most expensive balancing weight. Only when the mass is constantly exposed to strong temperature fluctuations and frost, it is really put to the test. Inside, the cheaper products are quite enough. Especially if another floor covering should be applied over the leveling compound, the expensive leveling compound would be a waste.

Why ground leveling compound ">

Tip: When buying, pay attention to the information in which thicknesses the ground leveling compound can be poured. Most products can be poured between three and ten millimeters. But there are also special balancing weights, the lower strengths also still create without later breaks. These are particularly flexible and therefore easy to process in extreme height differences.

The surface becomes smooth and particularly low in pores. This allows you to continue working relatively quickly and lay a new floor covering. In addition, a ground leveling compound can also be used outdoors. This is very important, for example, in a carport that stands on a concrete slab, because these concrete slabs over time sands and then get really potholes. But even on concrete terraces or stone surfaces, the ground leveling compound can effectively repair damage.

• runs very well and automatically
• binds fast
• to use inside and outside
• low-porosity surface
• fast ready to lay surface

Instructions - Use ground leveling compound

Many homeowners live in an old building. Whether the old floor has set unevenly over the years, or whether the floor was a bit rough from the beginning, with the right leveling compound, the problem can be easily eliminated.

1. Seal the edges

After cleaning the substrate, edge insulation strips should be applied around the walls. To do this, apply silicone or acrylic to the bottom of the wall and floor using the caulking gun and firmly press the edge insulation strip. In the corners you should cut off the strips and provide the seam with the sealant. If you glue the insulation strips at the corners, the corners will always be slightly round, which later disturbs the laying of the new floor.

Tip: If you only want to compensate for individual holes, the application of edge insulation strips is of course not necessary. But you should roughen the surface at the edge of the hole a little with a wire brush and tear it open, so that the products can connect better.

If you have a completely sloping floor, you should use a hose scale or a laser device to note the approximate required filling level on the edge insulation strip. This makes it easier for a larger room to find the perfect height later.

2. Prepare soil

Read carefully the manufacturer's instructions for your balancing mass. For many products, a primer or primer should be applied beforehand. This primer can easily be painted with a puff or roll. Do not give too much primer, otherwise this liquid product will easily puddle on the ground.

Tip: Some manufacturers have their own products, which are often referred to as elastic or elastic base. Follow these instructions and if possible use products that are from the same manufacturer and therefore fit together. This prevents chipping and subsequent damage.

3. Mix leveling compound

The mass is mixed with cold water in a mason trough. First, pour a few liters of water into the tub, then the balancing mass and then the rest of the water. Thus, the balancing mass is less dusty during the first turns of your whisk. Stir the mixture thoroughly for about one to two minutes, moving the whisk back and forth in the mason jug.

Tip: There are good stirring attachments for the drill, but if you frequently need a whisk, you can use a special electric whisk. Often the number of revolutions can be set a bit more precisely here. Some manufacturers specify a number of revolutions on the manual, which is basically exaggerated.

Most manufacturers provide a short rest or ripeness after the mass has been completely stirred. The ripening time is often between two and ten minutes - so you have to follow the instructions. Then the mass is thoroughly stirred one more time.

4. Apply mass

Start by pouring the leveling compound in the far corner of the room. You should always move backwards in door direction at work. Spread the mass lightly with the trowel. Look at your markings on the edge insulation strips to see how much mass you'll need.

5. Remove ground leveling compound

The mass is only partially by itself, the rest you have to distribute yourself with a wide lath or a peel sheet. It is best if you use a long metal spirit level, or directly stick the spirit level on the Abziehlatte. For smaller areas where little ground leveling compound is needed, you can process the compound well with a notched trowel. You can see how much you apply the mass and the traces of the teeth run right back.

Tip: Many products should be stirred so thin anyway that they run themselves. Then you can help out with a wide rubber squeegee or rubber puller.

6. Smoothing and drying

When the mass is completely dispersed, bubbles should be removed. You can do that with a regular red broom or with a spiked roller. Do not rely on the first impression, under the surface, many bubbles may have formed unnoticed, which work through later and then ruin your surface while drying.

Tip: By removing the bubbles, the mass can get messy again. With a simple, light leveling blade, you can remove the leveling compound again cleanly.

Depending on the thickness of the applied layer and the manufacturer's instructions, your leveling compound can usually be re-entered after a few hours. Fully cured, however, it is only later. So furniture can not be provided yet and you can tiling the floor often after a few days.

Tips for quick readers

• Clean and dry the surface
• Make edge seals with silicone and insulating strips
• Roughen up some holes on the edge
• Apply primer with quast thinly
• Mix leveling compound with water
• Fill holes with trowel and remove
• Pour balancing mass and distribute easily
• Use puller and spirit level
• distribute liquid soil leveling compound with rubber puller
• even after smoothen own footprints
• Bleed balancing mass with coarse broom / barbed broom
• Use a smoother for after-smoothening
• usually walkable after about half a day
• fully cured often after 48 hours