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Crochet Bee - Free guide for an Amigurumi Bee

  • Material and preparation
  • Instructions - crochet bee
    • The head
    • The body
    • The wings
    • The feelers
    • Sew together and face

Fragrant flowers and buzzing bees are the epitome of spring. In this guide we will explain succinctly how to crochet a cute bee yourself. As a decoration in the apartment, this cuddly, yellow animal brings a feeling of warm sunshine and sweet honey. It is also the perfect animal for a first glimpse into the world of the Amigurumi.

The crochet technique Amigurumi crochets the best things. Animals, dolls and small objects are the classic motifs. In this guide for an Amigurumi Bee you will learn all the basics that you need for other Amigurumis. It is crocheted in rounds and the shape is created by increases and decreases. Wings and antennae are crocheted separately and sewn at the end. Since it should be a cuddly bee that is also great as a stuffed toy for children, we have renounced a sting.

Material and preparation

You need for a crochet bee:

  • Crochet yarn made of 100% cotton (50 g / 85 or 125 m) in black and yellow
  • Crochet yarn made of 100% cotton (50 g / 125 m) in white
  • Crochet hooks strength 5, 4 & 3½
  • wool needle
  • filling material

With the crochet yarn you can vary very creative. If you want to crochet a smaller bee, take the thinner cotton yarn. If the Amigurumi bee is allowed to grow a bit, take the thicker yarn with 50 g at 85 m and the specified crochet hooks. Do you still have yarn leftovers that you want to use up ">

Prior knowledge:

  • thread ring
  • strong stitches
  • Increase mesh
  • Remove stitches

Note: You double a sturdy stitch by stitching the same stitch two times in a row and crocheting a single crochet stitch. When losing weight, always crochet 2 stitches together. For this, you take the thread through the 1st stitch and immediately afterwards through the 2nd stitch. Only then crochet all three loops on the crochet hook as a single loop.

Instructions - crochet bee

The head

We crochet our bee from the head. As the instructions always refer to rounds, it is best to always mark your start of the round!

Start with the yellow yarn and the crochet hook No. 5, a thread ring with 6 fixed stitches. Double all 6 stitches in the first round. In the second round you double every 2nd stitch. Now you have a total of 18 stitches in a round. Crochet three more rounds with 18 sturdy stitches.

Now it is taken off again. Crochet each 2nd and 3rd stitch together for one round. In the next round, crochet 2 stitches together, leaving 6 stitches. Tamp the resulting ball neatly with filler. At the small opening, the back of the crochet hook is a good stuffing aid. Already the head of our bee is ready.

The body

Crochet along the 6 headlines, but switch to the black yarn. Double all the stitches in the first round. In the next 3 rounds you also take 6 stitches each. For this you have to double first every 2nd, then every 3rd and finally every 4th stitch.

Now switch back to the yellow yarn. Double every 5th stitch in the first round with the new color. Now you have 36 stitches in a round. This is followed by 3 rounds with 36 stitches in yellow and then 3 rounds with 36 stitches in black.

After the next yarn change back to yellow, crochet a sturdy stitch into each stitch for another round. Then in the next round, take 6 stitches by crocheting every 5th and 6th stitch together. In the following round, every 4th and 5th stitch are crocheted together.

Change to the black yarn one last time. Reduce the total mesh count to 12 by grouping every 3rd and 4th stitch. Now it's time to stuff the bee's body. When that's done, reduce the stitches to 6 in a final round. Crochet every 2nd and 3rd stitch together.

Cut off the working thread generously. Thread the end into a wool needle. Insert one round into the outer thread of each remaining stitch and pull the thread tight. This closes the rest of the small opening. Now sew and knot the thread inconspicuously. The main part of the bee is done.

Tip: A color change is very easy. You cut off the old thread quite generously and crochet the first 2 stitches with the new color. Then knot the loose ends of both colors on the inside. Now nothing can dissolve anymore.

The wings

For the wings use the white yarn and the crochet hook 3½. Hit a thread ring with 6 fixed stitches. The principle of the increase and decrease should have become clear in the body. There are always always 6 stitches per round increased or decreased. These are distributed regularly over the respective round. In the following we will only specify the number of stitches within a round and how many rounds will be crocheted with the given number of stitches.

So next, if you're writing 2 rounds of 12 stitches, you'll need 6 stitches in the first of those two rounds. Then another round of 12 stitches without increases or decreases follows.

The 12-stitch rounds are followed by a round of 18 and a 24-stitch round. Then crochet 2 rounds with 30 stitches and 3 rounds with 36 stitches. We have already reached our maximum wing width. This is followed by 2 rounds with 30 stitches, 3 rounds with 24 stitches and 2 rounds with 18 stitches.

After the following 4 rounds with 12 stitches, the first wing is finished in principle. We immediately connect the second wing here. This procedure makes sewing easier. In addition, the continuous pair of wings looks very pretty.

It continues in reverse order: 4 rounds with 12 stitches, then 2 times 18 stitches, 3 times 24 stitches, 2 rounds with 30 stitches and 3 rounds with 36 stitches. Now crochet the declines to the wing tip. That would be 2 rounds with 30 stitches, then a round with 24 and 18 stitches and finally 2 rounds with 12 and a round with 6 stitches.

Cut off the working thread. Close the rest of the small hole just like the bee's body.

The feelers

For the feelers, use the black yarn and the crochet hook No. 5 to make a thread ring with 4 fixed loops. It's certainly not easy, but crochet 2 more rounds with 4 stitches each. Then switch to needle no. 4. With this you work 3 more rounds. By changing the crochet hook, the end of the probe is slightly thicker than the rest. Pull the thread through the last stitch and cut it off very generously. We will need it later to sew on the feeler. Since the bee gets 2 feelers, you have to repeat this point here again.

Sew together and face

Now you are almost done with your Amigurumi Bee. Finally, only the parts have to be put together and a face embroidered.

First, you sew the wings. If you look closely at the bee's body, you will notice slight irregularities in the color transitions. These should be on the bee base. This means that you sew the wings exactly on the opposite side. A few straight stitches are enough in the middle between the two wings to fix them. Use the white yarn for this. The ends of the thread can be knotted invisibly below the wings.

The sensors are sewn to the rest of the thread. Place it on top of the back of the head. Counted from the beginning is on the 5th to 6th round a very good place. With 2 solid stitches that are crossed over the last round of the feeler and the head, they are pretty tight.

For the eyes, thread a piece of black crochet yarn into the woolen needle. Place your eyes four rows in front of the feelers. For one eye, stitch the yarn 3 to 4 times around a stitch. Tie the beginning and end thread close to the head and pull the knot in the head.

The mouth sets 2 to 3 stitches below the eyes and follows the crochet round. Embroider the entire width with 4 stitches. Embroider once more with 4 stitches. Be careful not to use the same puncture marks as the first line. Now your Amigurumi bee is smiling friendly and ready to go!

Tip: If you attach a thin thread in front of the wings, you can hang the bee on it. So you fly happily through your apartment, for example, in front of the window.

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