So overwinter lavender and baby lavender properly
- Lavender in the garden over the winter
- Lavender in the pot over winter
- Schopflavendel and other chilblains
With the lavender normally sold with us you have little load, they are as adult plants uncritical hardy with us. But just as mature, vigorous plants, and today quite different lavender are sold.
Even the home of our most common lavender lies a little further south, under certain circumstances they may well use some winter protection. Lavender in the tub is even more delicate, and in times of global trade, all sorts of lavender chilblains are also sold. So you can bring them all well over the winter:
Lavender in the garden over the winter
With "normal lavender" we mean our most common lavender, European lavender species of the subgenus Lavandula, section Lavandula:
- Lavandula angustifolia - Real lavender
- Lavandula latifolia - Speik Lavender
- Lavandula x intermedia - lavandin
- Lavandula lanata - wooly lavender
An overview of the lavender species can be found in our article: List of lavender varieties
The section Lavandula has developed mainly from northeastern Spain down to Italy. In general, Lavandula angustifolia should be able to grow in hardiness zones 5 to 10, Lavandula x intermedia and Co. should be able to withstand maximum hardiness zone 6 (1 = cold, 10 = warm, Provence: 8 - 9, Germany: 5b to 8b).
Some lavenders of the Lavandula section did not notice that with the winter hardiness zone, in winter hardiness zone 5, 6 all these lavenders are "only almost hardy". Especially the woolly lavender, which has developed spatially limited in southern Spain, suffers slightly under cold, even in friendlier winter hardiness zones. Therefore, it is often crossed with the Lavandula angustifolia, we are more likely to sell these varieties such as 'Silver Frost' as pure wool-lavender.
A lavender really worthy of winter hardiness zone 5 would have to endure down to -26 ° C, and Lavandula angustifolia can do that often - but not anymore if there are long-lasting bald frosts, and the other "hardy" lavenders are in harsh winters Definitely not to rule out failures.
If in doubt, you should also give these lavender a winter protection, for young and late planted lavender that is even more true. In any case, Lavender needs the natural winter protection:
- not too short trimmed shoots
- removed / faded parts of plants around it as a protective layer on the ground
Lavender in the pot over winter
The lavender in the pot overwinters like his colleague in the garden best in the open air, however, the earth in the bucket must not freeze through tough. It takes more than -15 ° C until the soil in the garden is frozen deep down so that the root tips suffer.
In the bucket, the earth freezes much faster, more than a few degrees minus he may not get in the long run. Keep a bucket almost frost-free by placing it on an insulating base, insulating it with straw mats, coconut mats, fleece and, if possible, placing it on a warm wall. It should also be dry and semi-shaded - at temperatures around freezing, potted plants may die of thirst when warming sun first lets the water evaporate in the leaves and then freezes the water supply.
If you can not provide lavender with such an outdoor space, it is better to keep it indoors for the winter. In an unheated, but frost-free place, a bright cellar, a garage, in the greenhouse or conservatory. Good is such an alternative accommodation, even if the temperatures fall too long too much below zero.
Tip: A normal lavender can not overwinter in a heated room. If you have neither a balcony nor suitable adjoining rooms, you could try cultivating a Lavandula dentata or a Lavandula heterophylla, possibly with "little hibernation" (coolest room, slightly limited irrigation). Especially the Lavandula heterophylla, Goodwin Creek 'should be suitable for keeping as a houseplant.
Schopflavendel and other chilblains
Schopflavendel, which brings a unique aroma with cinnamon and camphor to the tea, is very popular at the moment . This Lavandula stoechas, subgenus Lavandula, section Stoechas, is available in several subspecies:
- Spanish lavender , Lavandula stoechas subsp. Pedunculata, long stems, grows wild in Spain and Portugal, is probably the most commonly cultivated
- Italian lavender, Lavandula stoechas subsp. stoechas, short stems, native Mediterranean area
- Further, even frost-sensitive subspecies come from Turkey and Portugal
Common to all these lavenders of the section Stoechas that they are quite sensitive to frost, even the less sensitive subspecies hold maximum and short -10 ° C out. Wintering outdoors is only possible with enormous winter protection and if the weather stays mild throughout. They are better kept in buckets and brought back in the winter to winter frost-free as just described. When it gets warmer in February, the chilblains should be put back into full sun immediately, so that they are hardened against burns when the sun regains strength (if necessary, put it back in the night).
The same applies to other exotic lavender that have been sold more often lately:
- Lavandula x allardii, giant lavender, up to 1.80 m tall shrub-lavender or
- Lavandula dentata, French tooth lavender, fresh resinous aroma
- Lavandula heterophylla, vigorous and frugal room lavender
- Lavandula multifida, fern-leaved lavender with pretty pinnate leaves and oregano aroma
- Lavandula viridis, lemon lavender, creamy white to yellow flowers