Instructions: Lay OSB boards correctly

• 1) Floating OSB boards
  • 1. Shopping and Planning
  • 2. Level the floorboard
  • 3. Lay out the vapor barrier
  • 4. Lay down impact sound
  • 5. Lay panels - first row
  • 6. Lay OSB boards in a composite
  • 7. Following rows
  • 8. Harden and clean up
• 2) OSB panels on the wall
• 3) Bolted floor
• 4) Double holds better

OSB boards are very popular because of their wide range of applications. Depending on the thickness of the plate, it can even perform a supporting function in a damp room. The OSB board consists of aligned coarse chips. In the step by step instructions, we will show you how to lay the boards correctly.

Since the coarse chips of the plates all point in the same direction, so are aligned, an OSB plate even in untreated state looks harmonious and sometimes even modern. Moreover, this development of the plywood industry makes these plates particularly stable. The plate is therefore used for many different purposes. In thin thicknesses, the OSB board is used for the construction of drywall walls and the covering of slopes under the roof. Stronger boards are mainly used for floor construction in the attic. Here we tell you everything about laying the OSB boards in the attic or on a screed.

You need this:

• spirit level
• ruler
• pencil
• Pincers / water pump pliers
• Cordless Screwdriver
• Handkreissäge
• hammer
• crowbar
• jigsaw
• Japanese saw
• OSB panels tongue and groove glue
• PE film
• aluminum tape
• sound insulation
• Leveling fill
• wedges

Tip: If the discounter on the corner once again a cheap Japansäge on offer, you should definitely access. Not only when laying the boards, you can use the Japanese saw to make small cutouts, for example for the pipes of the radiators, precisely and without difficulty.

1) Floating OSB boards

Floating a floor means that the new floor slabs are not bolted to the ground. They are not glued to the ground, but only together. This prevents the floor from squealing. Squeaking often occurs when a wooden floor works by constantly changing the air pressure and temperature in a room. However, if the floor is laid floating, it can continue to expand and contract freely from wall to wall, without giving off annoying and disturbing noises.

Strengths of OSB boards
The manufacturers of plywood panels have finally come to terms with these practical panels and have classified the different thicknesses of the panels into four common qualities. The first strength refers to panels that are used for furniture construction and interior work on the walls. The thickness of two is also suitable for drywall indoors, but it also has already bearing properties.

Level 3 starch boards are laid in wet rooms for load-bearing purposes. They are ideal for floating in the attic or on a concrete subfloor that is not completely stable. The fourth level of OSB panels can provide strong load-bearing properties in all areas, even in a damp room such as the bathroom. These panels can be used when the beams in the attic are quite far apart to create a load-bearing floor covering. From a distance of the bars of about one meter you should definitely use these plates.

Quality level 3 - the all-rounder for the soil
Here is an overview of the strengths that exist in grade 3, most of the work involved in laying a floor, you will certainly perform with this quality of plates. Many of these strengths are also available in the other quality levels. Note also the weight of the boards, because in most cases you have to drag them to the attic, eventually you can not do it alone.

Depending on the thickness of the board, the apparent density of OSB boards is between 590 and 610 kilos per cubic meter. That can be a good 20 kilos with a groove and spring plate with 25 millimeters. With the double-sided plate with a straight edge, it will be a bit difficult for you alone.

• Plate size groove and tongue 2500 x 625 mm - 12, 15, 18, 22 and 25 mm
• Plate size straight edge 2500 x 1250 mm - 8, 10, 12, 15, 18, 22 and 25 mm

1. Shopping and Planning

First, you should look closely at the beams or planks on which you want to place the plates. If the panels are to be laid freely over the existing beams, you must use thicker panels than with an old floor made of planks that simply needs to be reconditioned.

Tip: It is best if you not only choose thicker plates of 22 or 25 millimeters for a free-load plate installation, but also, if possible, rest the joints of the tongue and groove connection on the bar. So you get a higher load capacity, if somebody wants to set up a heavy waterbed on the converted loft.

Before starting work, check the beams and planks for damage caused by worms or rot. Once you have laid a new floor floating on the planks, you will no longer come to the underlying wooden elements.

Tip: When buying pay attention to the note: formaldehyde-free glued. Even if you do not want to live in the rooms .

2. Level the floorboard

An old floorboard or a concrete floor that is already getting old will often be a little uneven, so you'll need to level it with a leveler before laying the boards. Otherwise, the panels would sag or sag over time. Maybe they can break even under heavy load. The fill is now available in every hardware store in bags to buy. It is a granulate that can be processed very easily. Depending on the thickness of the bumps, small rails or strips should be screwed in between, which are then filled in smoothly with the loose material of the bed. With a long spirit level or a straight board, the fill is removed. In between, check whether you have applied the leveling compound completely straight and that the strengths are sufficient.

You need this for the leveling compound:

• Leveling bag in bags
• Bars for the hold of the bed
• Long straight board to pull off the fill
• spirit level

3. Lay out the vapor barrier

Especially if the boards are laid on an old floor made of wooden planks, a vapor barrier between the two layers is necessary. This is simply a sturdy PE film that you stick to the seams with aluminum tape. On the wall, let the film stand so far that it is later higher than the new floor made of chipboard. The foil disappears after completion behind the foot or skirting board.

4. Lay down impact sound

If the loft is removed, attention must be paid to a good impact sound insulation, so that the rooms in the floors below remain residential. The impact sound insulation is available either on the roll or in larger thicknesses than sheets that can still be unfolded. Do not save on footsteps, this insulation does not cost much, the annoyance of having someone walk around the upper floor later on, and you can hear every step down below, weighs much heavier.

5. Lay panels - first row

Before laying, these panels should also have time to adapt to room temperature, similar to laminate or parquet. Therefore, it is beneficial to store the panels in the room for at least about 24 hours prior to installation so that they can acclimatize.

Start at the longest wall of the room in the left corner. For the plates that hit the wall, tongue and groove are sawn off with the circular saw. Then align the panels along the wall and place wedges at a distance of about 80 centimeters between the panels and the wall to maintain a distance of about 1.5 to 2 centimeters. Expansion joint to all walls should be between 1.5 and 2 centimeters thick

Tip: If you want to glue your floor, it is best to first cut all tiles for one row and then apply a thin trace of glue to the tongue and groove joints. The plates are then pushed together with the pull bar.

6. Lay OSB boards in a composite

The last plate in the first row usually has to be cut off. So that the joints of the plates are not directly impact to shock, the cut plate is used as the first piece in the next row. This creates a bond, similar to brick masonry. Always use enough wedges to keep the floor from slipping. Especially since you really have to beat up the individual plates with the puller iron and the bats. Offset should be at least 40 inches wide

Is the offset, so the piece of plate that is to be taken in the next row, significantly smaller than about 40 centimeters, then it can wobble later or even break from the lead. You should then use another piece to make your floor really load bearing and durable.

7. Following rows

Not just in the attic, but wherever you lay the chipboards floating, you continue working in the same way. For the plates of the last row, tongue and groove must also be removed with the circular saw. Then wed the plates firmly to the wall.

8. Harden and clean up

The glue should be left to dry for at least 24 hours. Then you can pull out the wedges on the walls. If there is no more floor covering on the chipboard, you should seal the plates. For this purpose, a simple clear coat or a wood wax is sufficient.

Tip: Use the wedges again and again, even when laying laminate. So that the wedges can withstand that, you should use plastic wedges. Wooden wedges split in part already with the first correct blow with the hammer. Some cheap wedges in the trade are even only made of a similar material as MDF boards. Their soft fibers can not hold a large floating floor at all.

2) OSB panels on the wall

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3) Bolted floor

In an attic that is not permanently occupied, you do not need to bother laying the floor floating. You can simply screw down the plates on the beams or floor boards. Although it is then not mandatory to relocate the boards offset on the planks, but it is not a disadvantage for the later load capacity. In addition, the blend can always be used for the offset of the next row, which in turn saves costs.
Pre-drill the holes for the screws as much as possible and also prepare them with a countersink. So the screw is really just sunk in the OSB board and you can not get stuck with the shoe later.

Tip: If it is an attic that is not insulated, you should use screws that do not rust because of the high humidity. Stainless steel screws are ideal for this purpose, because they can be loosened even after several years, if you want to expand the loft into a full-fledged living space.

4) Double holds better

In the case of a substandard ground from rotten planks or long spaced beams, experts recommend using two plies of OSB boards. Then a layer with, for example, ten or twelve millimeters thickness is screwed and in opposite directions then a second layer of perhaps about eight millimeters thick plates is screwed. However, care must be taken to ensure that the seams of the boards never overlap.

An additional advantage is the price, because the plates with straight edge cost less and the low strengths make the project additionally favorable. However, the stability is increased enormously.

Tips for quick readers:

• Good planning and targeted measuring
• Strengths of the plates not too low
• Quality level 3 to 4 for the floor
• Vapor barrier made of PE film
• Plan for footfall sound insulation
• Enough plastic wedges in stock
• Floating installation does not squeak
• Glue tongue and groove
• Working with offset saves material
• Circular saw for long straight cuts
• Japan saw or jigsaw for cutouts
• Allow glued floor to dry for 24 hours
• Only then remove wedges
• Seal the floor if no flooring follows