Home generalRenovate old wooden windows - caulking, painting & co

Renovate old wooden windows - caulking, painting & co

  • The renovation: paint wooden windows
  • The renovation: seal wooden windows
    • Sealing with acrylic
    • Sealing with foam gasket
  • The renovation: glazed wooden windows
    • How to apply the glazes to the wood

Old wooden windows have a very special charm and should therefore be preserved if possible. With some tips, they can be effectively renovated so that they appear in new splendor. They are protected by the treatment for the future and at the same time have an attractive appearance. In our guide you will receive valuable instructions for painting, glazing and sealing.

The sealing of the wooden windows helps to save energy costs. A common problem with older windows is that they are not tight and thus allow in some or more places the cold air from the outside. In our guide, we therefore present two ways you can seal the windows. Through a varnish or by glazing you protect the material and ensure a new and attractive appearance. Here it is important to work effectively and sustainably and to select the right resources. Through these three different works, you can renovate the wooden windows and thus preserve and work up.

The renovation: paint wooden windows

Step 1: Preliminary considerations
First of all, you have to decide if you want to paint the windows from inside, from outside or from both sides. If you decide to paint on both sides, you must remove the wing from the frame, otherwise it can remain inside.

Use stable working stands

Step 2: Select workstation
If you decide to expand the wing, then you will definitely need a suitable workplace. This should meet the following criteria:

  • good ventilation
  • protected against wind and weather
  • two stable work blocks

Step 3: Unhook the grand piano.
Hang the wing and place it on the work blocks.

Old wooden window ready for renovation

Step 4: Protect the floor from dirt. Take a tarpaulin and place it on the floor under the working blocks. As a result, paint drippers are collected.

Step 5: Remove the handles of the wings and any fittings. When painting, the components would otherwise be soiled with paint.

Step 6: Silicone is usually applied between glass and window sash. If this is porous or moldy, then you must also remove it. Often, the lower part of the window is particularly affected by condensation flowing downwards.

Old silicone

Step 7: Scrape off peeling paint.
Work with a spatula and remove the porous paint. This is important to create a smooth surface on which the new paint can adhere well. Last bumps are repaired with sandpaper. It is important that you completely remove porous paint spots and sand down to the wood. Start with a coarse sandpaper and change later to a finer paper (grain 120 to 150) . Residual paint remains must be roughened, so that new paint can hold.

Coarsely remove old paint with the spatula

Tip: So that you do not damage the glass when sanding, stick the glass surface in all relevant areas with adhesive tape. Make sure that the tape can be easily removed later. In general, Malercrep is well suited. Glue the window sash on a 3 to 5 centimeter wide edge and cover over the remaining silicone.

Step 8: Sanding
If the window has heavily weathered areas, then sand it off. For this purpose, an electric grinder or a sanding block are suitable.

Sand wood

Tip: It is especially handy if you connect a vacuum cleaner to the electric grinder. This saves you a lot of work when cleaning.

Step 9: Swipe the window.
Please note the following tips when painting:

Tip 1: When painting, you should first focus on the places that are difficult to reach later. Hang the window back to paint, then paint the hard to reach areas first.

Tip 2: If you use alkyd varnish to paint, then you have to expect a relatively long drying time. Therefore, it is advantageous in this case, hanging the window hanging.

Tip 3: Make sure that untreated wood surfaces are given a thicker coating than places where the paint is still largely in order.

Tip 4: First use a brush and then paint with a paint roller. This creates a particularly smooth surface.

Step 10: Continue painting
Following the first coat of further paintings. Depending on the initial situation, you should delete two to three times. In between, sand the painted areas with sandpaper (grit 150).

Tip: As long as the paint has not dried, you should leave the window open or tilted. Otherwise, there is a risk that the wing sticks to the frame.

Step 11: Apply silicone
If you have previously removed the silicone, then apply new silicone after drying the paint.

  • Mix water and detergent in a small bowl.
  • Work with a cartridge and use it to apply the new silicone.
  • With a silicone puller and the water remove the silicone.

The renovation: seal wooden windows

Reasons for sealing the windows:

  • Leaky windows increase the heating costs. The heat is dissipated and cold penetrates.
  • The comfort level drops, as in large leaks the draft is perceived as disturbing.
  • Leaky windows are a risk factor for mold growth. Moisture penetrates and it comes to the meeting of cold outside air and warm heating air. This causes condensation to form on the window or window frame.

How to identify leaks

Not always leaks are visible to the naked eye. If you want to seal one or more windows, it is best to check all windows for their tightness.

In winter, you can often see breezes near the frame with your hand . To do this, guide the flat hand parallel to the frame at a distance of about one centimeter.

You can also use a lighter to identify leaks. Keep the lighter near the frame and watch the flame. If the frame is leaking, the flame starts to flicker due to the draft.

Attention: Be careful as the flame must never touch the frame. Note that in a breeze, the flame flickers and thus can get closer to the frame. In this case, there is a risk of fire.

Sealing with acrylic

Acrylic is very suitable for sealing the windows.

  1. Clean the fold with a spatula. Remove loose paint chips.
  2. Roughen the fold with coarse sandpaper. This allows the acrylic to adhere better.
  3. Spray all grooves with acrylic. Use a plastic film, which you have previously moistened with a little oil, as a release agent between the sash and the fresh acrylic. As a result, the mass adapts to both the fold and the frame when closing the window. Thus, the tightness is optimized.
  4. Let the acrylic harden for around 24 hours and then remove the plastic film. Using a cutter, cut off the acrylic noses.

Sealing with foam gasket

If you do not want to use acrylic, you can alternatively use a self-adhesive foam gasket. For this, first acidify the surface of the frame and then attach the foam seal. The advantage of this variant is the simple attachment. The disadvantages are the rapid wear and the high costs.

The renovation: glazed wooden windows

A glaze can be applied either as a thin-layer glaze or as a thick-layer glaze.

  1. The thin film glaze

Thin-film glaze is a paint that is open-pored, translucent and transparent. If you compare it with the thick-film glaze, then you will find that it has a lower binder . The advantage lies in the easier processing. They apply the glaze to the wood and it penetrates deep into the structure of the wood. They benefit from a long shelf life because thin-film stains do not peel off and thus have a long service life. The disadvantage, however, is the fact that many thin-film stains are solvent-based. In addition, the property of the wood continues to absorb moisture. This makes it inferior to the weathering process.

  1. The thick film glaze

The thick-layer glaze is also a transparent, open-pored and translucent paint. However, it has a very high proportion of binders with a solids of more than 35 percent. The consistency is also greater and the pigmentation is higher. It is a paint that can be made similar to a paint based on alkyd resin or acrylic resin. Acrylic-based agents are water-based, alkyd-based products contain solvents. You have the choice whether you opt for a thick-film glaze, which preserve the natural grain or whether you use a glaze with a shade. This gives you various design options.

Tip: The thick-film glaze creates a tactile film on the surface. It is important that you apply the glaze as evenly as possible to get a smooth texture.

The advantage of the thick film glaze is that the penetration of moisture is prevented over a long period of time. It is therefore preferred in the case of old wooden windows to thin-layer glazing in general. However, after a few years, the glaze peels off as it becomes brittle.

How to apply the glazes to the wood

  1. First, you must thoroughly clean the window before glazing. Especially free it from old paint residues. You can also use sandpaper or sanding fleece for this. Use as fine a grain as possible.
  2. Glue the window frame with a painter's crepe. This is important to get a clean coat of paint.
  3. First of all, apply a wood protection primer. This protects the wood from mold and fungus.
  4. Allow the window to dry thoroughly after painting.
  5. Distribute the thin-layer glaze or thick-film glaze evenly on the surface.
  6. Also this painting needs to dry well. If necessary, you can apply a second coat of paint.

Tips for quick readers:

  • old wooden windows can be glazed
  • Use thin-layer glaze or thick-film glaze
  • Thick layer glaze protects against moisture
  • Thin film glaze is easy to handle
  • mix both variants: first thick film glaze
  • Brush window: sand off well first
  • Use a masking tape for masking
  • let it dry sufficiently
  • Seal window: use acrylic
  • Acrylic is more durable
  • Self-adhesive foam densities are easy to use
  • Foam seals are more expensive and less durable
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